I'll check our local auto parts supplier here.
Thanks!
Harold Sawatsky
Remax Crown Real Estate
306-535-6961
hsawatsky@remax.com
> On Jan 22, 2016, at 9:41 AM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
>> First, thanks for all the input I received before Xmas. The
>> project this weekend is to remove the tie rod as one of the
>> fulcrum pins is completely destroyed
>
> A very common problem in my experience. You might want to consider upgrading
> to the Delrin/SS joints as sold by ARE & TRF. They
> will last much longer.
>
>> Also, should we replace any other bushings while we are
>> doing this? It does look like most other components are in
>> good condition.
>
> The inner A-arm bushings are another common problem, IMO; particularly the
> upper ones. For the other joints, pry and wiggle against
> them looking for any movement. In general, if you can see them move at all
> in ways they are not supposed to, the joint should be
> replaced.
>
> Also look for any play in the steering box. If you see any, my suggestion is
> to rebuild it rather than trying to adjust the screw
> on the top. It's to compensate for manufacturing tolerances, not wear IMO.
>
>> Trying to find some documentation or advice as to the best
>> way to proceed and do I need any specialty tools.
>
> This style of tool seems to work the best for me
> http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html
>
> Never had much luck with the "pickle fork" style, especially on those fulcrum
> pins (aka silentblocs).
>
> Randall
>
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