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Re: [TR] u-joint

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] u-joint
From: Bob <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2010 18:32:14 -0500
On Thursday, December 30, 2010 05:55:47 pm Gary Nafziger wrote:
> Since I'm restoring a tr-3 ground up I decided to renew the u-joints.  How
> in the H is one supposed to get the caps off?  The book says drive the cap
> out until it's proud of the surface and then pull out with your fingers. 
> UH HUH lol.  Maybe from a fairly new car but from one with 50 yrs. of
> rust?  There's no way to pull them out..........nothing to grip.
> 
>  My joints weren't really that loose or worn out, just old and I thought
> renewing them would be a good thing to do and I had time while waiting on
> more parts to come.  So I just put them back as they were and intend on
> using them until they cause trouble later.
> 
> Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions on getting out rusted caps. 
> Actually, these joints seem pretty tough and I'm wondering if many people
> have trouble with U-joints.
> 
> gary n.
> 
> 
Gary,

First remove the cir clips and any grung where the bearings fit. Then scrape 
with a sharp knife around the inside until you see bare metal.

Then you have to hit with a BFH the end of the yoke opposite the bearing and 
it will eventually come out enough where you can grab it with a channel lock 
or something. 
Once you get one side out you can just insert an aluminium drift to punch out 
the opposite bearing. There should be some room to get the drift in by pulling 
out the assembly. Follow same procedure with the other bearing sets.

If you remove the front yoke assembly from the mainshaft, remember to scribe 
the shafts so you re-assemble the front yoke assembly to the rear along the 
splined shaft the same. If you dont, you will have problems.

Be very careful when pressing in the new bearings as not to crush the needle 
bearings. It is best to use some sort of a press. I used an arbor press from 
horrible freight.

Bob
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