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Re: [TR] POWER STEERING PUMP

To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] POWER STEERING PUMP
From: "Ann and Tim Buja" <thebujas@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 23:54:06 -0500
john taylor asked
> What is the current wisdom on replacement P/S pumps for the
> TR8 fitted to an original 3.5 motor?
> Is there an exact cross to another vehicle?

Why do you need to replace it?  Aside from a lower pressure relief valve,
this is a standard General Motors Saginaw power steering pump and rebuild
kits are available at just about any local auto parts store.  Rebuild kits
consist of a shaft seal and a bunch of o-rings and "square section" rings.
Ask for a rebuild kit for a 1980 Chevrolet Citation.  These pumps are found
in a myriad older cars from the 70's and 80's: Buicks, Cadillacs,
Chevrolets, Pontiacs, Oldsmobiles, GMCs, Volvos, Saabs, Chryslers, AMCs,
Jeeps.  The rebuild kit that I purchased was from AutoZone was about $15 and
was a Powercraft 7918, made by Stant Corp in Dixon, IL.  It stopped the leak
I had between the pump body and the reservoir on the pulley side of the
pump.

FYI, there is no procedure in the ROM for removing the power steering pump
in a TR8 equipped with A/C.  The only procedure listed is for a non-A/C TR8
and it's essentially worthless for an A/C car.  Let me save you lots of time
by telling you now that you will have to drain the coolant and then remove
the radiator and the fan assembly before attempting to move any hardware on
the power steering pump.  You cannot remove the pump from the side or above
since the A/C compressor is in the way.  The pump has to come out toward the
A/C condenser and then downward.  Removing the radiator and fans will also
give you the room you need to turn the wrenches which would otherwise be
obstructed by the A/C compressor, piping, and bracket.  Even so, be prepared
for a half-flat rotation, flip the wrench over, half-flat rotation, flip the
wrench, etc. on a couple of the fasteners that hold the pump to the pump
bracket.

While you've got the fans out, this might be a good time to check the
bearings and brushes...

I found a couple of rebuild websites that had lots of photos and were every
helpful when I rebuilt my pump:
<http://tc.wagoneer.net/sblog/static.php?page=ps_rebuild>
or
<http://www.corvette-restoration.com/restoration/motor_and_transmission/0608
13_power_steering_pump_rebuild.htm>
watch the word wrap - the links above consist of everything between the <
and >.  You can also do a google search on
  rebuild saginaw power steering pump
The links above are the 1st and 5th links shown from that search.

The reservoir tanks look slightly different on the pumps used in the
Wagoneer and Corvette, but the internals of the pump are identical to what I
found on my TR8.  Take note that once you remove the cast iron pump body
from the steel reservoir and remove the back plate that's held in place with
a big spring and a lock ring, the internal parts can fall out if you turn it
upside down.  There is a direction arrow cast into the outside edge of the
oval "cam ring" case that surrounds the pump vanes.  The cam ring can be
assembled either way, but it won't develop any pressure if you reassemble it
with the arrow facing the wrong way, so take note of the direction arrow
when you remove the cam ring.  No other internal parts are directional on
rebuild.

If you decide not to rebuild your pump, be sure to retrieve the pressure
relief/flow control valve from the pump you removed from your TR8.  This is
in the high pressure pipe fitting and is easily removed.  I believe that
Triumph uses a 750 psi relief valve and the standard GM Saginaw pump is
either 1000 or 1500 psi.

The TR8 pump is identical to the pump used on the Stag, aside from the
pulley attachment method.  You'll need a special tool to remove (and
reinstall) the pulley that is pressed onto the shaft on the TR8 pump, while
the Stag pulley is keyed and is held on with a bolt.  Your local Autozone or
similar parts store may have the tool available for loan - bring the pump in
and see if they've got something that fits.  I didn't remove the pulley and
rebuilt the pump without replacing the shaft seal.

Tim Buja - Rockford, IL - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6
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