If you use the "parts for Home Depot " use them once !!!! and with an extra
nut on both ends of the shaft ---I looked at my rig after using it and
noticed that the thread was really used up --the force of the spring on the
nuts had distorted the threads on the rod . ---cheap insurance . The spring
pad also needs to move to the outside of the car as it comes down to clear
the frame. --Don't use the jack--Randall is correct --so get the studs out
of the way. My 2 cents Mike TR2inLA
> [Original Message]
> From: Randall <tr3driver@comcast.net>
> To: David Willett and Carol Gray <willgray@vaxxine.com>;
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Date: 6/17/2006 7:30:35 PM
> Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A Front Suspension Disassembly
>
> > I am considering actually withdrawing the studs and nuts together,
> > but I can see that the studs are likely to foul the frame before they
> > are free from the wishbone.. If I could get at them I would try
> > cutting the studs, but there does seem to be any room to do that.
> >
> > Any suggestions?
>
> My suggestion is still to buy or make a proper spring compressor.
Available
> from TRF or Moss; I made mine from parts bought at Home Depot (and a big
"flat
> washer" from the parts bin).
>
> > How far does the lower spring pan have to be
> > lowered before the spring is decompressed?
>
> As I recall, it was about 1.5" on my car, YMMV. But it was far below
where the
> pan hits the frame rail.
>
> With the spring compressed, the outer nuts removed and the innermost two
> nuts/studs turned out some distance, I believe you can pivot the lower
A-arm up
> away from the spring pan, and get in there with a hacksaw blade (or maybe
a
> Sawzall if you have one) to cut one of the studs. Then remove that A-arm,
and
> slide the spring, pan and other A-arm over the inner pivot pin.
>
> But I sure wouldn't try that while using a jack as a spring compressor.
There's
> a lot of energy stored in one of those springs, and I'd prefer to keep my
> fingers ...
>
> Randall
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