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Clutch dowels

To: "Triumphs" <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Clutch dowels
From: "Bob Rochlin" <r_rochlin@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 15:34:35 -0500
Hi all,
        A couple of weeks ago Phil Ethier sent a notice to the list about
the Minnesota Triumphs web site moving.  On that web site is an interesting
article by Brent Kiser and Tom Fremont about TR6 clutch problems.  One of
the discussion topics was the dowel bolt dilemma.  Tom Freemont suggested
that using two 21/64" drill bits for dowel locators worked well.  When I
disassembled my clutch to eliminate that sticky clutch syndrome I eased the
shoulders on the throw out bearing sleeve per Nelson's Buckeye Triumphs site
article. When I reassembled the unit I used 3/8" bolts in the "locating
holes" on a whim.  The clutch operation was much improved.  I'm now not sure
if it was the bolts or easing the carrier which improved the clutch action.
It seems that the Gunst bearing kit takes no chances as it uses a softer
brass carrier and new locating dowels.   
        Another interesting topic of the article was the poor application of
the Borg and Beck replacement clutches in TR6's.  The author states that in
his research most of the TR6 clutch problems can be traced to these clutches
(which he says are designed for Saabs) both in the "stickiness"  and "hard
pedal" departments. Brent further assets that many of the other clutch
problems commonly encountered on TR6's can be traced to the excessive
pressure needed to disengage the clutch straining the other components in
the clutch system.  He suggests that the original Laycock clutch required
much less pressure to disengage.  I know that Moss lists a Laycock clutch
set.  Is anyone running one of these sets?  Are the Laycock replacements as
good (trouble free) as the originals? 
         Anyone, anyone, Beuller, anyone!

Bob Rochlin
'72 TR6




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