> After trying everything to stop gas from leaking from the union
> between the
> float bowl arm and the bottom of the H6 carb on my '60 TR3A, I'm
> about to
> install the alternative bolt, cup washer and new rubber seals
> from Moss.
In spite of the Moss catalog, the carb bodies were different between the
different float bowl mounting arrangements, to compensate for the difference
in mount height. However, your 60 should have the later mounts, so I'm
guessing you've got the right carbs already and no adjustment is required.
You can tell the difference by laying a straightedge (like a 6" steel rule)
on the bowl mounting surface on the carb body, and seeing if there is any
distance between the straightedge and the jet mounting surface. On the
early carbs with the stud for mounting the float bowl, the surfaces are at
the same height. On the later carbs with the bolt mount, the bowl surface
is higher (with the carb inverted) by about 1/16".
> Anyone installed one of these with good results?
That's what I've always used on my daily driver, and it works fairly well.
The rubber rots and has to be replaced every few years, but it can be done
without removing anything else.
The long term solution I plan to use is switching to HS6 carbs, but of
course they're not original.
> Any tips on making it work?
A thin coating of silicone grease on the rubber bits seems to make them last
longer. I also tried not bottoming the bolt, but couldn't tell if it made a
difference or not.
> We just can't have gas leaking over the exhaust pipe. Lucky so far...
What's really entertaining is finding the exhaust manifold glowing red hot,
except for the black spots when gas drips onto it ...
Randall
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