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RE: TR3 Clutch

To: "Easton Family" <eastonfamily@earthlink.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: TR3 Clutch
From: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 07:17:49 -0700
> I've had this car for many years and have taken the slave
> cylinder out so many times that I've lost track of how it's supposed to go
> together.  With the cylinder (Girling) bolted to the rear of the
> bracket and
> the end float adjusted to .075", the clutch lever moves about
> 3/4" when the
> pedal in fully depressed.  When I try to bolt the cylinder to the front of
> the bracket, the rod isn't long enough to adjust the end float.  Does this
> indicate a problem with the clutch fork?

I believe so, yes.  Note that the factory manual (and many other) drawings
show the early clutch slave, which did have the mounting ears to the rear of
the bracket.  However, the longer slave on the later TR3 and all TR3A/B
should be mounted with the ears to the front of the bracket.

> Why would the clutch fail to
> disengage fully only after warming up?

I'm wondering if perhaps you have multiple problems.  If you can get the
free play in the slave linkage down to spec (which I believe should be only
.010" - .030"), it should release the clutch even with a broken pin.  I
actually drove my TR3A for several years with a broken taper pin, by making
up a longer pushrod.  One thing to watch for : be sure the slave piston is
pushed fully home when checking the adjustment.  If the slave is sticky, or
the spring is weak with age (or improper replacement), the piston may not
return home when cold.  Then when it warms up and works more freely, it may
return home and cause excessive end float.

Another indicator : where is the pedal when the clutch starts to engage ?
If it's still near the floor, then a broken pin or inadequate movement is
likely.  If it's halfway up or more, then there may be a different problem.

If you do pull the gearbox, check that the locating pins are present.
Absence of the two pins can sometimes let the gearbox move against the
engine enough to make the pilot bearing drag (which causes the same symptoms
as a dragging clutch).  Probably worth replacing the bearing anyway, while
it's apart.

One more, check the free play at the master cylinder.  Lack of free play at
the master typically causes a clutch that slips when hot, but I suppose it
could cause the opposite problem, especially if either the master or slave
leaked a bit.

Randall

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