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Re: Power British Alternator Conversion Kit For TR3

To: Bill Brewer <bbrewer@qnet.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Power British Alternator Conversion Kit For TR3
From: "Scott A. Roberts" <herald1200@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 10:26:29 -0400
Cc: ryoung@navcomtech.com, rtriplett25@yahoo.com
References: <000001c25cb6$37274940$26d4ddd1@tehachapiprocess.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Brewer" <bbrewer@qnet.com>
Subject: Power British Alternator Conversion Kit For TR3
>      I just installed an alternator kit conversion kit from Brian Schlorff
> at Power British (610-270-0505) and was pretty satisfied. The kit is good.
> There were some minor inconveniences.


Well, I didn't do that to the TR3 I had(finally sold! Yay!) but I did
convert the Herald to negative ground and an alternator. However, I created
my own bracketry-

1. Replaced water pump bolt holding upper genny slide tension bracket with
one 1/2" longer($.50), used larger i.d. nut as spacer between bracket and
water pump.

2. Left all original brackets in place, with generator removed.

3. Bent 3/8" rod($3.69) to create lower bracket: Rod passes through
alternator long hole, right angled 90deg. down, then angled back and down,
as well as in, then  bent the rod so it passes through the rear hole in the
generator lower bracket.  Cut to proper length, and threaded both ends. A
nut and washer on either side of the bracket are used for forward-back fine
adjustment, as well as tightening it securely.

4. Replaced front generator bolt(into extended hexagonal piece) with new
one($.50), made bracket from angle iron($3.00) section about 6" long. Flat
went across face of hex piece and lower alternator (centers around 5", but
have to measure) and angled flat passes below. Trimmed and smoothed as
needed.

5. Installed Pro Rebuilt Alternator 7127-9($35.00) and fit Dayco 15425(about
$8.) Tightened using original adjuster. (Prior to this, I "fine tuned" the
belt routing to be sure all was properly in line.)

6. Original genny wiring was completely removed, no splicing, as I was also
rebuilding entire harness, and redirected other regulator connections. New
wire consisted of plastic block connector(from pigtail, $2.00) with pigtail
connectors removed and new ones installed with yellow/white wire going to
"IGN" lamp and the other replaced with #10 Red wire, going first to ring
connector mounted to stud on alternator, then back to battery cable on
solenoid. Wiring was then wrapped in when new wire harness wrapping was
completed.

Setup works very well and reliably, all for a cost of about $50. and an hour
or two of time. I would be happy to supply pics to those interested- it
looks quite "factory", and I can convert back without having to find missing
brackets, should I ever go insane.

Scott

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