Kurtis wrote:
>
> Is it possible to adjust timing by rotating the
> distributor to compensate for the valves being out of adjustment?
Not really. Valves too tight means the exhaust valves will quickly burn
up (if you can get the engine to run at all), too loose means there's
nothing in the cylinder to fire.
> "Check and if necessary adjust the rocker clearances when the tappet is
> resting on the back of the cam. To obtain this position, turn the camshaft
> until the number one push rod has reached its highest point, then turn a
> further full revolution to insure the push rod is fully down and the tappet is
> resting on the back of the cam."
Either you mis-read the manual, or that's a misprint. It should say
turn the _engine_ (meaning the crankshaft) a further full turn. This
will ensure the valve is on the base (back) of the cam, which is where
the valve clearances should be set.
>
> Well, I noticed that several of the valve clearances were out of spec, so I
> adjusted them.
My guess would be that you've got the clearances badly out of whack,
leading to your "no-start".
> so I took them out and sanded them a little with fine grade sandpaper. I put
> them back in and adjusted the gap, then decided to start the car up.
Did you clean the points afterwards, or check (with a voltmeter or test
lamp) that they were conducting, ie the voltage on the dizzy terminal
should go to 0 with the key on and the points closed, be 12v with the
points open ? Also, it's quite easy to get confused when putting points
back in, the order goes : insulator, point spring, condenser, lead wire
(order of the condenser and lead don't matter, but they have to be
adjacent), _then_ the other insulator, flat washer and nut. And, about
7 times out of 10, I have to take the cap back off and hunt around for
the rotor <g>
> I adjusted the distributor as indicated, and it took quite a bit of clockwise
> rotation to achieve the above specifications. Does this sound reasonable?
No, not unless it was badly out of whack to begin with. But, you can't
tell by looking when the points open for this test, you have to use a
test lamp. Note that it's entirely possible for the TDC mark on the
pulley to be wrong. Also, there is some backlash in the cam drive, so
it's important that you turn the engine forward (clockwise if you're
standing in front looking back towards the engine), to arrive at the
timing position.
My suggestion at this point would be to first recheck your valve
clearances. One good method is to turn the engine by hand until the
next cylinder (doesn't matter where you start) reaches the "point of
balance" your book talks about, where the intake valve is just opening
and the exhaust valve is just closing (don't have to be exact here, just
reasonably close); then check the clearances on the cylinder that is
'opposite' in the firing order. For example :
Turn
#1 to balance, set #4
#3 to balance, set #2
#4 to balance, set #1
#2 to balance, set #3
Now, turn the engine so #4 is "on balance", and check the position of
the TDC mark. If it's pretty close (within 1/2" or so), you can assume
it's accurate, otherwise the pulley is assembled wrong. If it's right,
turn the engine forward two full turns, stopping just as the marks line
up. Set the timing vernier on the dizzy to the big mark in the middle,
turn the dizzy CCW until the points close (as observed with a test lamp
connected across them and the key on), then back CW until they just
barely open. Lock the pinch bolt down, but don't overdo it (doesn't
take much, and overtorquing can break the dizzy body). That timing
should be plenty close enough to get the engine to run, but to be "spot
on", you should now turn the vernier in the advance direction (as
marked) until two more marks show.
Let us know if this helps or not.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver
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