Jerry,
I wonder if your new electric fan is inhibiting air flow through radiator
whenever fan is not powered up..
you don't mention whether your electric fan is located on radiator as a
'pusher' or 'puller' but if it's in front could it be blocking (or slowing)
the natural flow of things through your radiator at drive speeds?
also wondering if you have done anything to rectify the use of a 'standard'
thermostat in the housing that was designed for using the sleaved type
thermostats - have you restricted by-pass port or blocked it altogether so
you get max amount of coolant sent through radiator? (quality aftermarket
'sleaved' thermostats are available at Moss)
If it were my car I think I would set the electronic fan switch based on
position of temp guage at dash Vs. temp reading inside radiator (if your temp
reading system is working correctly of course)
Carl '63 TR4 since '74
Subject: High under-hood temperatures
List,
I recently installed an electric fan and removed the mechanical fan on my TR
4A. At the same time I re-installed the shroud which had been removed
several years ago. I know that several other listers have done this on their
3's and 4's and reported great results. Here is my experience since
installing the system two weeks ago.
According to the temperature gauge the car is running hotter when cruising
(needle is higher on the gauge) with the electric fan than it did with the
mechanical fan. The engine thermostat is a 160 degree unit and I have set
the fan to come on at about 170 degrees according to a thermometer I placed
in the system (with the cap off) when I set up the adjustable thermostatic
switch. I don't want the fan to run when I am running at speed and it
doesn't seem to be coming on when cruising since it only turns on shortly
after stopping for traffic. No overheating when running along at speed or
when stopped, just higher reading on the gauge. TR 4A gauges do not have #'s
just a small red area to indicate too hot. Previously I did come close to
overheating when in excessive stop and go traffic so there does appear to be
an improvement in traffic situations.
While I am curious about the reason for it seeming to run hotter, the
problem that has developed is excessive underhood temperatures in general.
When I am stopped in traffic for more than just a few minutes I assume that
I am overheating the gas in the carbs since I get a lot of stumbling when
trying to accelerate to the point of total power loss. This occurs at about
2000 to 3000 RPM and can last for awhile until the gas is cooled again by
the movement of the car.
Has anyone else experienced what I am experiencing? ...
Regards,
Jerry Van Vlack
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