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RE: Broken Heater Control Value

To: corey.sherman@rcn.com, "6packlist (E-mail)" <6pack@autox.team.net>, Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Broken Heater Control Value
From: "Eric Conrad" <conrade@qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:45:18 -0600
Corey Sherman wrote:
Besides replacing the unit, does anyone know how to service this piece...
mine sprung a major leak after using it during last week's intense fog in
the Northeast. Now coolant shoots out the top like a water fountain, even
when the valve is shut! Until I fix it, I'm grounded.


Corey,
Funny, we had the same problem at the same time.  We must have reached the
life of the rubber inside.

After rebuilding my engine, I considered a new Heater Control Valve, but
decided mine worked before, why not now.  Bad logic when it comes to LBCs, I
know!  Based on my problem, I expect that your valve diaphragm has ripped -
mine did.

I'm not sure whether I can explain my Rube Goldberg fix, but I'll give it a
try.

1. Remove the valve from the head, and find what should be a single
retaining spring on the top of the anodized metal.
2. Twist the top "squeeze catches" off of their retaining nubs that are part
of the base casting, and separate slowly while looking inside.  Don't open
too far, as you don't want to tear the diaphragm, if yours isn't - which I
doubt.
3. Undo the snap ring (looks like a cotter pin) inside the unit, remove the
metal cylinder, the spring, and finally the washer.  Do not remove the metal
post or the rubber "ball" holding it, as you will use this for the base of
the fix.  At this point, cut off the outside lip of the diaphragm that is
molded to fit into the groove in the base of the heater valve.
4. Get another diaphragm of some type, that you can cut to size, put a small
hole at the top, and fit over the metal post.  I used high temp silicone
material to mate the new diaphragm piece to the metal plate at the bottom.
5. Fit the outside lip on top of the new diaphragm, and work to "re-twist"
the unit back together.  Now that you have more material inside, you may
wish to bend the tabs out a little.  Once back together, I used a drift to
ensure a tight fit for each clamp.  Replace the retaining screw, and refit
the valve.

This should work as a temporary fix for the valve, until you can find
another working unit.

Does anyone know whether replacement diaphragms are available, or how to go
about having them made?

Eric

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