Hi, Folks,
I've been out of the mailing list loop since last October, but wanted to
share some recent info I've gathered and poll the list for some more....
This is a really long-winded note, so if you're in a hurry, come back when
you have more time.
Item 1) Aluminum Flywheels from Jim Donato
Last May, a year ago, I started asked the list about aluminum flywheels
for TR4s.
I rebuilt my TR4 engine 2 years back with a few go-fast goodies, but
didn't have the cash at the time to get a flywheel to replace the stock
boat anchor on my TR. ( I did balance it with the pressure plate,
however. The balancer guy said he'd NEVER seen a pressure plate so far out
of balance. He actually had to tack a little counter weight on it. The
rebuilt pressure plate came from one of the big three.)
So before everybody goes off on me about how their car works just fine
with the stock flywheel, let me just say that mine does too, and that I
just wanted to see what happened when I took off on the order of 15-20 lbs
off the rotational inertia.
After driving a few non-Brit cars with lightened flywheels, I pretty much
became obsessed with having one myself one day. Kinda like dual
Webers. You know you don't need 'em for the street, but MAN, they just
look so cool!
Last year when I asked about aluminum flywheels, Uncle Jack ( Jack
W. Drews ) told us about Jim Donato making a run of flywheels for TR 2-4a
cranks.
Jim Donato may be contacted at 1-800-886-5337.
I finally got around to calling Jim THIS May about it to see if he still
had some. He does. Turns out Jim runs a car dealership, but has a CNG
manufacturing facility that makes all kindsa nifty stuff out of
aluminum for Brit cars.
He answered my questions about all the horror stories I'd heard about
aluminum flywheels such as shearing bolts, coming loose, flying apart,
making the car hard to launch from a standstill, etc. He had all the
answers ( all good ) and so I popped for one right there on the phone.
It was $321 plus $10 for shipping. That does not include a ring gear and
it weighs 9.5 lbs. If you've every priced aluminum flywheels, you KNOW
that's a great price. I've been quoted prices of $425-650 for them.
And if you're like me, you're suspicious of the quality since it's such a
bargain. He rattled off the names of a few well-known TR4 racers using
them, so I was convinced.
When it arrived and I pulled it out of the box, my wife said, "Wow, that's
pretty, what is it?" And it really is a work of art, folks. It looks like
something you'd find on a new Ferrari or an airplane.
But the flywheel leads me to a new delima. I now need\want a new diaphram
pressure plate to put on this jewel. ( This flywheel is reported drilled
for both the old 3-finger pressure plate, and the 4a-6 type diaphram type,
but I cannot confirm this as I don't have either type laying around my
garage to confirm )
I'd like to know if anyone knows about a diaphram-spring type pressure
plate that might be a tad nicer than the stock ones? That is, something
between the stock one and a Tilton unit. Paeco offers one that looks like
it has a cast housing that doesn't cost much more than a stock one. Anyone
know about these?
Any suggestions on a quality diaphram spring pressure plate? I may go for
a stock one, I just want one that has been rebuilt to high specs.
Sometimes the rebuilt ones are very poor in quality.
On to the next item!
Item 2) HS6 carbs
When I rebuilt my TR4, I came across a nice polished 4a, 'long-plenum'
manifold and used it with my original H6 carbs. I use the disposable 4a
oval air cleaners, and this package JUST BARELY fits in my car. In fact,
when I turn the engine off and it bucks a little bit, the front air
cleaner will tap the fender.
My ol' H6s really need a rebuild. When I open the throttle, you can hear a
squeal which is a vacum leak at the well worn throttle shaft.
Then I thought, well, if I'm going to rebuild anything, then perhaps I
should get some HS6s. The HS6s flow better according to Ken Gillanders,
and using the shorter-bodied HS6s would allow me to use those big-arse 3"
K&N air filters which in turn would allow a little air horn on the carbs
inside of the filters. Now, THAT set up would REALLY suck! ( get it?
really suck, vacum? Sorry, couldn't resist.)
So I got me a decent pair of HS6s that needed a rebuild, but they dind't
come off a TR4, and here is my question about them:
Can I use the existing belcrank on the forward boss of the intake manifold
with the HS6s, or do I need to make\find a new bellcrank that is centered
between the carbs?
It would seem that while the H6 carbs and the Strombergs were actuated by
twisting the throttle shafts all the way forward of both carbs, I *think*
the minority of TR4a that came out of the factory with HS6s were fitted
with a bolt-on belcrank gizmo that went between the two carbs.
Can anyone confirm \ correct me on this?
Can you actuate the HS6 carbs the same way as the H6s, i.e., by the front
throttle shaft, or do I need to start pursuing or making a bellcrank that
will go between the carbs?
Thanks to all who have read this far, and thanks in advance for any
information you have to offer.
If you have any questions about the flywheel or whatever, drop me a line
and I'll respond when I get a chance.
-jeffrey
/// triumphs@autox.team.net mailing list
/// To unsubscribe send a plain text message to majordomo@autox.team.net
/// with nothing in it but
///
/// unsubscribe triumphs
///
|