Hi,
drain the fluid from the MC first. I use a turkey baster or an EZbleed
vacuum pump to get as much fluid as I can.
Disconnect your hard lines and drain into suitable containers.
Then I'd suggest using your "blow gun" to blow all the remnant fluid out
of the lines, wheel cylinders and calipers. Do this step outside and not
next to your prize-winning other Triumph!
Let the lines dry for a while and then "blow" them one more time.
Reconnect, re-fill and bleed.
As an aside, I had two minor problems on my race car when I first put all
the hydraulic stuff in. I made the silly mistake of assuming that I had
rebuilt everyhting perfectly and tightened up all the lines etc. and
filled the system. Then I went out on a date.
The next morning, I entered the garage to find a bit more than one pint
of Catrol LMA all over the driver's side firewall, inner fender and
frame. Bummer. But (this is the interesting part), the paint that I had
used to paint the car (this was essentially a frame-off restoration) was
a two-part urethane called PPG 2K or some such and not one flake of paint
peeled or discolored or anyhting bad.
In other words, the paint that I picked appears to be fairly well
"immune" to the brake-fluid "peel" syndrome. That's a plus for me,
because the much higher wet boiling point of the LMA is much more
suitable for a race-car application.
Now that I know the system doesn't leak - I might go out and get me some
of the that Castrol SRF stuff (see www.castrol.com for more info). Hmmm. $75
for a quart! Really.
;-)
rml
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent.
Consultant MIT Computer Services |
Voice: (617)253-7438 FAX: (617)258-9535 |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|