<< Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 14:27:50 -0700
From: "Butch Lewis" <butchl@eudoramail.com>
Subject: Rear end Oh-No!! Advice Needed
Just when the weather got REALLY nice, the TR4 is down. I felt a clunk when I
turned into the driveway (thought I had run over a stone.) However, as I
pulled out into the road the next day, the car began to shudder as the speed
increased above 5-10 mph. I returned to the driveway and put the car onto
jack stands. To make a long story short, I can feel much too much play (lash)
as I rotate the driveshaft back and forth by hand. My guess is that I can
even feel movement between the pinion and crown gear and that they do not
mesh properly. I plan to pull the diff cover this week and have a closer
look. Meanwhile, has anyone on the list had experience replacing these parts?
With the exception of the "case spreader" (I had to see that in writing to
believe it) I probably have access to the tools. Am I better off looking for
a used diff somewhere? - Butch '63 TR4 >>>
Butch,
You got some heavy work ahead - removing your differential - but not as bad
as pulling a motor!
I looked for weeks to borrow or rent a differential 'case spreader' calling
many shops here in CA but most guys said they just use a couple of crowbars -
even a pro of 30 years said so!
It was even easier than that for me - I simply pulled carrier out with my
claw hammer! My driveshaft 'slop' was mostly from worn differential gear
'thrust washers' (about a dollar each at Moss) . I knocked the pinion
gear/shaft out and removed some bearing 'shims' to tighten up bearing
pre-load back to 18lb dry turning weight - no new parts required there.
Pulled carrier bearings and moved shims from one side to the other side to
close up and adjust pinion-to-crown gear 'backlash' from .025 to about .005.
- that took about 10 times to get right. I will be adding a .003 shim to
non-crowngear side carrier bearing before final reassembly to pre-load back
to spec. (no more claw hammer removals after that I guess!)
This was my first time in the differential and we'll see if I got it properly
'tight and quiet' when I finish restoration in 2002.
Maybe you'll be lucky and see that thrust washers are mostly to blame -
should be easy enough to replace without yanking differential out of car. But
now that i re-read your note ..may be more serious damage to pinion/crown. I
would definitely have the Factory Manual in hand - very good directions/specs
in that book.
'Rebuilts' in California go for about $650 to $750 EXCHANGE nowadays.
The trickest part is getting the .005 backlash clearances and preloads right
- you'll need bearing puller, dial guage and some patience. Parts may be; all
new seals, some bearings and gears assorted shims.
If you have questions give me a holler..
Carl Sereda
'64 TR4 since '74
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