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Re: Help needed with TR3

To: "fogbro1" <fogbro1@bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Help needed with TR3
From: "Bill Brewer" <bbrewer@lightspeed.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 20:56:03 -0700
Cc: "Triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Hey Ed,
     I really enjoyed your email and it is good to see something useful
coming back out on the list.
     I am driving an in-situ/ad hoc restoration and already have my next
resto project lined up where I will utilize all of the hard earned
experience gained from the first restoration.
     My frame, suspension and OD trans are already done on the second
project and I'll heed your advice on the brake lines. Any other useful
nuggets of wisdom that you can throw out will be greatly appreciated.
     A couple of things that I'll do different next time:
1. Straighten/rechrome old bumpers instead of using "far eastern" bumpers.
2. Dip my seat pans instead of trying to bead blast them. What holds all
that scale on anyway?
3.  Use a nut breaker on the acorn nuts on the passenger seat instead of
trying a wrench which just breaks the studs off anyway.

     My Ford Escort died again today. It appears that the ignition switch
stripped out. Car wouldn't turn off.
     My TR-3A has never failed me.

     Bill Brewer
     Tehachapi, CA
     1960 & 1961 TR-3A's
-----Original Message-----
From: fogbro1 <fogbro1@bellatlantic.net>
To: Christopher Ball <cball@oct.on.ca>
Cc: 'Roger Colson' <sassamon@mediaone.net>; 'TRs Roadster list'
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 7:32 PM
Subject: Re: Help needed with TR3


>
>List,
>
>Having replaced the tub on my TR3 before fitting the front-to-rear brake
>line, I first tried to fabricate a line by passing it through the frame,
>shaping it, and flaring the ends while lying on my back on a cold,
>concrete garage floor. The heater was doing a great job of heating the
>ceiling as I recall. Although I'd used the flaring tool successfully in
>more accessible areas, I was unable to do so in this position and ended
>up purchased the TRF brake line which comes with both ends fitted. I
>pulled this line through from rear to front and was able to bend it to
>fit, even around the jacking hole in the right floorboard; all of this
>while working at minimum bifocal distance. Strange how I need to get
>things far enough away to be able to see them.
>
>So I know two things:
>
>1. The brake line can be fitted after the body is in place.
>2. There's no way the factory did it this way. It had to be in place
>before the tub/body was fitted; and that's the way my second restoration
>will be done.
>
>Ed Woods
>
>



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