I've run aluminum rack mounts from TRF. on my '74 TR6 for about 14 years with
know problem. I've never noticed an undue amount of vibration in the steering
wheel, even when my daily drive included about 10 miles of gravel roads. The
vibration level doesn't seem to be any different than that of the steering
wheel of my MGB.
Kevin Brown '74 TR6 '76 TR6 '71 MGB '64 MGB '62 Buick 185 Hp 215 V8 (soon
to go in to an MGB)
rgb@exact.com wrote:
> >pros and cons to the three different steering rack mounting systems
> >poly, stock and solid aluminum
>
> If installed correctly, there isn't a tremendous difference...
> -------------------
>
> Test for this defect - open hood, watch rack while turning steering
> wheel back and forth 6 inches. No movement of the rack should occur.
>
> Notice the tool pictured in the rear of the manual, I've never heard
> of a real one existing. With the radiator, etc. removed, this is
> easy to make, the concept being to apply a pre-load to the rubber/poly
> prior to tightening the nylocs (not much torque!). Dual Vice-grips or
> two wide screwdrivers will work. My method only works if eveything is
> clean and loose. I am very careful to center this rack by doing each
> side twice. From underneath you can see the location of the edge of
> the lower piece referenced to the side, right/left should be the same.
>
> Notice the shims under the OEM installs if its never been removed,
> usually one 1/8" shim under one side or the other...
> The rubber OEM pieces are usually in good shape (rest of car's rubber is
> rotten, but these are in good shape... who knows...), I use poly, but
> I rubber works just as well, maybe better.
>
> In most instances, the rack has been removed at some point, and never
> installed with pre-load. In many cases I am able to just tighten these
> from below with the screwdrivers, etc. and remove all the play - a great
> improvement.
>
> 1. stock rubber - seems fine to me, absorbs some impact prior to bending
> the rack, and absorbs road vibration so steering feels smooth
> 2. poly bushings - ditto above, harder to pre-load much
> 3. aluminum - this nails the rack to the frame, notice the oil breath
> holes are not covered, you may want to put some rubber over these.
> These transmit road vibration to the steering wheel and will bend
> the rack upon any contact with a curb, etc.
>
> This is another instance of the "vendors" wanting to "sell" you a solution.
> Just tighten the rack with pre-load on the bushings... I usually remove
> the 2 brackets, clean it all up, inspect the bushings, and pre-load from
> the bottom.
>
> Roger
>
> --
> Roger G. Bolick, rgb@exact.com 512-794-9567, FAX 512-345-2879
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