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Re: TR3A True or False

To: Michael Ferguson <fergie@ntplx.net>
Subject: Re: TR3A True or False
From: drew@pixar.com
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 08:09:05 -0700 "TR3A True or False" (Jun 10, 10:31am)
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <375FCC5E.DEFC4A99@ntplx.net>
On Jun 10, 10:31am, Michael Ferguson wrote:
> Subject: TR3A True or False
>
> TRUE OR FALSE...
>
> 1) The only parts holding the TR3A steering cross link in place are the
> inner tie rod ends and the drop arm/idler arm silentblocs.
>

TRUE

> 2) If I cut or pry off the "washer" on the top of the drop arm
> silentbloc, I should be able to remove the now destroyed silentbloc from
> the drop arm.
>

DEPENDS

The silentblocs consist of an inner pin with a taper and thread
on one end and the washer on the other and an outer steel sleeve which
gets pressed into the crosslink. These two pieces are connected
together by rubber which is bonded to the inside of the steel
sleeve and the outside of the inner pin. IMO, the washer is only
there to keep the whole thing from falling a part if the bonding
fails. So, if the inner shaft is still bonded to the rubber you won't
be able to remove the crosslink from the silentbloc.

If you can manage it, the "correct" way to remove the cross link is
to pop the inner pins of the silentblocs from the tapered holes in
the idler and drop arms. Same as you would remove a ball joint from
a pittman arm. This isn't easy to do but is possible. I'm not sure
but I think it was Jack Brooks who came up with a novel way of removing
the silentbloc from the drop arm. You do need to be carefull not to
end up bashing the tapered peg on the rocker shaft into the worm on
the steering shaft. If you get too rough you can create little
dents in the worn and this isn't good.

> 3) If I then remove the inner t/r ends and unbolt the bracket holding
> the idler arm, I should be able to remove the cross link, idler bracket
> and (what's left of) the silentblocs.
>

Sorry but I don't know if there's enough clearance to lift the cross
link over the pin. Probably is though

> 4) Installation is the reverse of removal.
>

FALSE. You'll still need to pop the inner pins of the silentblocs out of
the idler arm and the drop arm, press what's left of the old silentblocs
out of the crosslink and press in the new blocs. See note above about
being careful with the drop arm.

> Each question is worth 25 points. You can receive extra credit if you
> show up at my house and actually do the work! Thanks, all...
>
> --
> Michael Ferguson
> Vernon CT
> 1959 TR3A     TS53990L
>
>
>-- End of excerpt from Michael Ferguson

Good luck,
Drew

--
Drew Rogge
drew@pixar.com

    Protect privacy, boycott Intel: http://www.bigbrotherinside.org


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