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Re: Adjusting lever shox

To: Tony Rhodes <ARhodes@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Adjusting lever shox
From: Alan Myers <reagntsj@ricochet.net>
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 13:44:12 -0700
Cc: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Organization: Coldwell Banker Residential Real Estate
References: <199906091326_MC2-78C8-71F1@compuserve.com>
Tony Rhodes wrote:
> 
> I have upgraded my springs to the Moss "blue" springs, and they are really 
>nice.
> Now I want to increase the damping of the shocks as the ride bounces just a 
>little
> too much.
> 
> Is there an adjustment I can make to the valve for this?  If so, what exactly
> to I do?  Do I need to put in a new valve?  DO I just need some HD shocks?
> When I move the lever arms by hand, they seem smooth and firm.  I do not
> think the shocks are worn out, just too little damping for the uprated 
>springs.
> 
> -Tony
> ARhodes@compuserve.com

Tony, there are several things you can do. 

You could try a heavier oil in the shock. Some folks use even 50W motor
oil. Going this route, I'd look at motorcycle shock oils which come in a
variety of weights. It would be pretty easy to expirement with different
weights. I suppose the potential downside is the possibility of blowing
out seals in the shock.

You can also buy different rated valves for the shocks. One "trick" to
uprate Armstrongs for the rear of TR's is to put in the valves from the
front end lever shocks of an MGB. I have seen these new for around $25
ea., probably less if purchased from a junkyard... uh, excuse me,
recycler.

You could also send them to someone like Apple Hydraulics and get
rebuilds that are uprated. I think this runs $60 to $75 per, but not
sure, better check with them.

There are truly adjutable lever shocks available, special order from
England. That would probably be the most expensive route, I'm guessing.

I still have the original shocks on the back end of my car and they also
seem fine, testing by hand, but I anticipate needing to do what you are
doing once the car goes back on the road. 

Incidently, another lister suggested to me to use Allen socket headed
bolts when remounting the shocks to make them easier to install &
remove, since there is very little room to work between the shock and
the bracket. Sounds like a good idea to me. 

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L 



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MZ

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