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Re:

To: Sumner Weisman <sweisman@gis.net>
Subject: Re:
From: George Richardson <gprtech@frontiernet.net>
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 17:46:56 -0800
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Organization: Merlin Group Inc.
References: <199812042007.PAA10057@home.gis.net>
Sumner, I understand that Triumph Register of America has a video tape
on rebuilding your control head. I haven't seen it, but you might want
to look into it.

Sumner Weisman wrote:
> 
> George and Ken,
> 
> You sure had a good go-around about control heads.  It's been great for me,
> since I'm the guy looking for the info.  I printed it all out, and next
> Spring, long after you've forgotten about it, I'll be happily using the
> info to fix my Triumph.   Thanks!
> 
> Sumner Weisman
> 62 TR3B
> 
> Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 06:02:44 EST
> From: KTRIUMPH@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Directional signals
> 
> In a message dated 12/2/98 9:06:14 PM EST, gprtech@frontiernet.net writes:
> 
> << Why on earth would you want to remove the stator tube? It's separate
>  from the control head. If you loosen the 3 grub screws, the control head
>  will pull out from the steering wheel and stator tube.
> 
>  You can pull it far enough out to do work on it without pulling the wire
>  ends all the way into the stator tube. You may find that the parts
>  within are worn, in which case you either will have to make parts, or
>  order a new control head.
>   >>
> True. But it depends on how easy it is to pull the wires thru the tube, not
> to
> mention getting them back. Also, the cockpit is probably not the best place
> to
> do "watch repair".
> 
> Ken Nuelle
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 06:57:35 -0800
> From: George Richardson <gprtech@frontiernet.net>
> Subject: Re: Directional signals
> 
> There's no "watch repair" in the control head, believe me. It's kind of
> an odd setup, but not small or hard to work with. I've repaired several
> that I had here before sending them to people who needed them.
> 
> If you pull the stator tube, you are then going to need to thread the
> ends of the wires back through the steering column, which will be more
> difficult than just pulling them back in a couple of feet.
> 
> By the way, I've remove the control head and wires and reinstalled it,
> removed the stator tube and reinstalled it, and just pulled the control
> head out a bit while leaving the wires in place and repaired it.
> 
> In order of difficulty:         Removing the stator tube and replacing it
>                                 Removing control head and wires and replacing 
>it
>                                 Pulling control head out some and working on 
>it
> 
> You can also pul the control head out a bit and disconnect the wires
> from it, so that you can work on it somewhere else. I haven't done that.
> 
> KTRIUMPH@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 12/2/98 9:06:14 PM EST, gprtech@frontiernet.net
> writes:
> >
> > << Why on earth would you want to remove the stator tube? It's separate
> >  from the control head. If you loosen the 3 grub screws, the control head
> >  will pull out from the steering wheel and stator tube.
> >
> >  You can pull it far enough out to do work on it without pulling the wire
> >  ends all the way into the stator tube. You may find that the parts
> >  within are worn, in which case you either will have to make parts, or
> >  order a new control head.
> >   >>
> > True. But it depends on how easy it is to pull the wires thru the tube,
> not to
> > mention getting them back. Also, the cockpit is probably not the best
> place to
> > do "watch repair".
> >
> > Ken Nuelle
> 
> - --
> George Richardson
> The Wyvern - '57 TR3, TS15559L - Now on the road!
> http://www.merlingroupinc.com/tr3.htm

-- 
George Richardson
The Wyvern - '57 TR3, TS15559L - Now on the road!
http://www.merlingroupinc.com/tr3.htm

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