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Re: Head Rebuild

To: "Tony Rhodes" <ARhodes@compuserve.com>, <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: Head Rebuild
From: "Lawrence R Zink" <zink@pdq.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 00:55:25 -0500charset="iso-8859-1"
A .001 surfacing should clean up your head very nicely.   But, if you want
to increase your compression, than talk to the machinist and have him take
it down enough to ensure that the head is not warped, but don't go crazy .
Remember that raising your compression will require a higher octane fuel for
optimum performance.  And yes, without question you should replace the valve
guides. Most valve guides are knurled into the head.  As to the difference
between the valves, I haven't the foggiest idea.  As far as cost goes, it
varies so much by locale that without knowing the competition in your area,
you could pay a premium price for a mediocre job.

Larry Zink
1964 Spitfire4 Mk1
Houston, Texas



 -----Original Message-----
From: Tony Rhodes <ARhodes@compuserve.com>
To: INTERNET:triumphs@autox.team.net <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, April 25, 1998 7:30 PM
Subject: Head Rebuild



I have a spare head that I am considering rebuilding since my original
(still fitted to the engine) may be prone to valve recession eventually.

The spare has a slight amount of surface corrosion on the block side
of the head.  There are some tiny pits in certain areas after I cleaned
it up.  Should I have the head refaced?

If I am going to get it refaced, should I have the it round down a little
more to boost compression and HP?  How much should I have
taken off.  I have heard 0.010....

I would also replace the guides since I have no idea of the mileage
on the head.  There are stock (cast iron?) guides and bronze ones;
the bronze are supposedly better.  Is this true?  The O.D. of the iron
guides is 0.5000, and the bronze is 0.5020.  If the iron has an
interference fit, how do you ever fit the bronze?  How do I get the
old ones out and the new ones in?  I plan on having the shop do this,
but I just want to know.

There are stock and stellite exhaust valves.  The stock may not
actually be available.  Is there any practical difference between the
two types?

What is the usual cost of a machine shop grinding the head, and installing
the guides, valves and seats?

Lots of questions, I know, but thanks in advance.

-Tony

P.S.
-you know what?  One reason I appreciate these LBCs more than my
big, powerful, reliable, civilized american iron is that when you actually
get to your destination in an LBC, you know that the only reason you
got there is due to the TLC you give the car and a little luck!

My northstar V8 is smooth, and quiet when driven sedately, and
just gruff enough when opened up.  BUT that purr of my TR 4 banger
is a real treasure because I know I made it that way!


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