I agree with what Schuyler said. I had no problem when I installed the
Ignitor on my 250. The only thing that I found was to make sure the ring
from the Ignitor is down as far as it can go. This can prevent you from
getting the rotor button back on right.
But do check the cap for any damage.
Kevin Andrews
Siler City,NC
250's (CD2908LO)
(CD7766L)
----------
> From: schuyler grace <schuyler@bellsouth.net>
> To: jbonina@nectech.com
> Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Weekend HELP update (Ignitor)
> Date: Monday, March 30, 1998 11:56 PM
>
>
> Jeff,
>
> Sorry to hear about your not so wonderful experience with the Ignitor
> installation. As I wrote before, mine went into Malibu Barbie's Dream
Car with
> no trouble at all, but I had read a few horror stories on the list,
before
> (hence my preference for the Crane unit until I was talked into the
Ignitor
> purchase). The installation didn't change the timing one degree, and
MBDC runs
> better than she ever did, even on fresh points.
>
> So, here are a few things that may help:
>
> 1) Your coil can't possibly measure .001 ohms unless it has melted down,
and
> then, I wouldn't think it would get very hot (after the fact, of course,
> because the low resistance wouldn't generate high heat).
>
> 2) I think your coil must be getting hot from trying to crank the engine
over
> -- that's when the ballast resistor is bypassed. If you crank long
enough, it
> will get hot enough to leave blisters on your fingers.
>
> 3) The wire you removed is the old points connection that provides
ground to
> the coil when the points are closed. The Ignitor takes the place of the
points
> and performs this function via its own connections, so this isn't your
> problem. (Don't throw this wire away -- or fail to keep a good set of
points
> in the boot -- you'll need it if the Ignitor fails somewhere down the
road
> (most likely, a long way from home)).
>
> 4) Are you sure your rotor didn't trash the distributor cap when it (the
> rotor) came apart? Also, the glue you used to reassemble the rotor may
have
> left some remnants inside the cap, which isn't going to help things much.
>
> 5) Your timing may have changed so much while you were troubleshooting
that
> the engine won't start. You may need to check the static timing to make
sure
> it is at least reasonably close.
>
> 6) Of course, the Ignitor may have expired somewhere along this process,
so
> I'd replace the points and try starting the car, again. If this is the
case,
> I'd think your vendor would replace the unit for the sake of maintaining
> customer loyalty.
>
> 7) One last thing...I was warned to make sure the points mounting plate
was
> well grounded or the Ignitor would eventually burn out. This is simple
to
> check -- just connect your VOM between the plate and the block and
battery
> negative (two checks). You should read pretty much no resistance.
>
> My money's on the distributor cap, but to clear up the installation
process...
>
> 1) Pull the distributor cap, rotor, points, and points-to-distributor
wire
>
> 2) Install the Ignitor pickup in the distributor using the old points
mounting
> screw
>
> 3) Connect the Ignitor wires to the "+" and "-" terminals on the coil
(don't
> worry about the ballast resistor unless you are using an unballasted (non
> stock) coil or you're already eating points and/or coils (the ballast
resistor
> is bad), because the Ignitor will work fine on the normal, reduced coil
> voltage).
>
> 4) Replace the rotor, making sure it is fully seated on the distributor
shaft
> (sorry, had to add that one), and replace the distributor cap.
>
> 5) Start your LBC and go! Oh, yea...enjoy the lack of nostalgia over
not
> having to constantly change/set your points, again.
>
> Good luck! This is one product I can wholeheartedly endorse (so far).
>
> -Schuyler
>
> jbonina@nectech.com wrote:
>
> > To all those who made a valiant effort to catch me before I left
the
> > office, I thank you very much. Especially Bob Lang,Tom O'malley
and
> > Trevor Boicey.
> >
> > Here's what happened with my Ignitor installation (newbies, pay
> > attention). I did this without the benefit of the list.
> >
> > I read, re-read and re-read the directions. Regarding the
resistance
> > of the coil, I did place a multimeter across the coil (+ & -
> > terminals) and it read 6 ohms. I figured I was safe. I did not
measure
> > the voltage as Tom O'malley suggested (no offense Tom, I didn't
get to
> > read your e-mail till this AM).
> >
> > I removed the cap. Pull off the rotor, unscrewed and removed the
> > condensor and points. I then removed the wire that was screwed
down to
> > a plate on the distributor near the points and subsequently passed
> > through the white plastic grommet and was attached to the positive
> > side of the coil (I think). I screwed the Ignitor down using the
> > condensor screw and screw hole. I slid the Ignitor magnetic donut
over
> > the cam. I then place the cap back on carefully ensuring the new
> > grommet was help in place properly by the cap. I put the red wire
to
> > the + side of the coil, the black to the - side. Turned the key,
> > crank, no start. Pulled off the cap - NOW, I installed the rotor
> > (oops). Turned the key again, crank no start. Hmmmm... Oops again.
The
> > wire I removed from the + side of the coil in order to put the
Ignitor
> > red wire on was just dangling. I put this wire (I assume it went
to
> > the key?) on the + side of the coil also. Turned the key alot of
> > cranking and then started. Yahoo! Hold, there's more.
> >
> >
> > The car died. Pulled the cap. I broke the rotor,must not have been
> > seated properly. S**t! Sunday AM. What's the chance of finding a
> > rotor??? Well, the answer is ZERO! Epoxied the rotor back
together. It
> > works! Check the timing. Doesn't even read on the scale...way off.
> > Adjust it to 4 degrees BTDC. Purring like a kitten (somewhat).
However
> > still cranks kind of hard. Let it idle for about 5 minutes before
> > taking her for a test drive. As I was pulling out of the driveway,
it
> > started to sputter. I didn't;t get 200 feet from the house and it
> > died. Pulled the cap....the rotor broke again. I'm getting
frustrated.
> >
> > To make a long story longer - I found a rotor at a British car
> > restorer in Oxford (don't get excited, not England) Mass. late
Sunday.
> >
> > This AM I went out to the car, installed the rotor and watched it
turn
> > as I cranked the engine. It wasn't hitting anything. I
re-installed
> > the cap and turned the key. Click-click. Hmmm...the flashers were
> > working. Couldn't be the battery. Tried again...now nothing, not
even
> > click-click. ARGHHHHHHH! The end.
> >
> > Well, it's going to break another record high in Mass today and
I'm
> > driving a hardtop. I've got the charger on the battery and will go
> > home at lunch to see if it helped. What is going on?
> >
> > A couple of notes" I noticed with the Ignitor, the coil was hot. I
> > could hold it, but another couple of degrees more and it would
have
> > been too hot to hold. Also, the car had a hard time cranking after
the
> > install. I checked the voltage of the battery and it looks like
only
> > 11 volts.
> >
> > I'm looking (read pleading) for suggestions. Why is the coil hot?
Why
> > does there seem to be a battery drain?
> >
> > Bob L. would you mind a phone call this AM at your listed #?
> >
> >
> > Thanks all,
> > Jeff
> >
> > '73 TR6 - currently resting
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Schuyler E. Grace
> schuyler@bellsouth.net
> schuyler.grace@atl.frb.org
> http://members.tripod.com/~schuyler/
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