At 04:27 PM 03/19/98 -0600, you wrote:
>
>Well, I got the first wheel off that I tried to remove finally.
>Liquid Wrench penetrating oil seems to have helped or my patience
>held out better on the 2nd go round. After getting the tire fixed on
>that wheel I put it back on the car, this is when I noticed that the
>wheel spun even after pushed onto the hub all the way. Now I assume
>that this is a baaaaad thing!! I have no idea how long it was driven
>in this condition.
Yes its a bad thing. See below.
> I still have one more wheel that doesn't want to come loose.
>Unfortunately this one is marked left side but its on the right
>side of the car, so I'm assuming they beat the sh.... out of it to
>get it to stay on the car. The octogonal knockoff nut is pretty
>messed up. I can't get the wrench to sit solidly enough to get a
>good solid whack at it. Since I will have to be replacing this nut
>anyway, is a long pipe wrench an acceptable tool to use? Or do I
>need to file the knockoff down to what I can get a better grip?
>Although I don't know how well it found file down.
>
>How much free play should there be when the knockoff is off the car
>but the wheel is sitting on the hub?
Very little rotating free play.
Check the splines on the hub. They should be flat-topped, not
saw-toothed. Same is true for the splines inside the center
part of the wheel. Saw-toothed splines aren't worth having on
your car, they can be dangerous.
Worn splines will allow the wheel to slip on the hub a little.
Eventually the splines will round off (probably when under
hard acceleration or braking) and the wheel will spin on the
hub, maybe coming off the car.
By the way, when I picked up my current car there was a
thunking noise from the rear when I applied power. Turned
out to be a hub extension with worn splines (the wheel was
still OK.) A good extension cured the noise.
Cliff Hansen
chansen@exis.net
1966 TR-4A CTC 64615L (Anxious to be done with front end work)
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