Dave F. writes;
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>manual. Both emphasize the importance of getting the end
>float on the rear wheel bearings between .0005-.0025". The
>factory manual, of course, recommends using the appropriate
>Churchill tool. The Haynes manual seems to require assembling
>everything dry and checking it. I don't want to put the hubs
>on since I would probably have to rent a hub puller to get
>them off again, but it seems that that is the only way to do
>it, right?
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Yep, that's pretty much the procedure, and yes you'll need a puller. It
doesn't need to be really large and if your going this route you might as
well get/buy a puller. They aren't terribly expensive and you'll find a
myriad of other uses for it anyway. The shims ( I wouldn't worry about the
one you have ) should be available at any bearing supply house. They carry
shim's for use with tapered bearings and if they don't have them I'm sure
you could order them. Then it's just a matter of using the proper amount to
achieve the end play of .0005 to .0025. Now you can see why I said it's a
real pain to replace the doughnuts! You get to go through this every time
you have them replaced (unless you use the same bearings over, but hey, you
have it this far apart, you don't want to have to open it again for bad
bearings and well - - -.)!
Barry Schwartz
Bschwartz@encad.com (San Diego)
72-V6 Spitfire (daily driver)
70 GT6+ (when I don't drive the Spit)
70 Spitfire (body repair almost done)
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