It is to my understanding that none of the numbers in the car were ever
matched...whether it be body to chassis number or head to engine or
transmission to diff, they were just randomly assembled...there are
actually breaks in the commission numbers...cars that were never produced.
My parts car actually had numbers that were fairly close...but that is just
a coincidence. I would say just order the parts that are under your hood.
I believe that the diagrams actually have a disclaimer that says this may
not be what you have...things changed so rapidly as far as the emissions
went that no actual drawings can be made.
Aaron Johnson
72 TR6 CC84967U (made mostly of CC56606E)
----------
> From: Scott.Mackay@SEMATECH.Org
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Engines and shocks
> Date: Wednesday, April 16, 1997 5:29 PM
>
>
> To all you knowledgeable TR owners out there, a few quick questions.
>
> First a little history. After driving my '74 TR6 (deduced form the
> commission number) around for a couple of years now, I now realize I
have
> to do something to keep all of the parts together to keep it a daily
> driver. After comparing the commission number to Moss's catalogue,
I am
> fairly convinced that I have a '74 vehicle (not 74 1/2). However, I
cannot
> find any information on how to tie engine numbers to the commission
number.
> Also, I find that the head number does not match the block number.
The
> reason that I am concerned is that the emissions diagram for a '74
motor
> does not match what's under my hood, and I am concerned about
ordering the
> correct parts. Thus:
>
> Did the head numbers match the engine number when the vehicles were
built?
>
> Is there a reference to determine which year a numbered engine
(head) was
> built?
>
> Was there any significant difference in head design which might make
one
> series more desirable than another?
>
> On another note, I am rebuilding my rear suspension this weekend,
and have
> seen the thread on lever shocks wearing out. My understanding is
that the
> lever shocks were essentially a baffle (mounted to the lever) moving
in a
> oil bath. I do not see how this type of system could ware out.
Also, I
> was under the understanding that the shock stiffness could be
increased by
> substituting a higher viscosity oil into the unit.
>
> How incorrect is this understanding?
>
> How DOES one determine if one's lever shocks are past their prime?
>
>
> Also, is there any good info out there about rebuilding a TR
differential?
> I've read the Haynes manual and nothing scares me about it. It
sounds like
> you just need to be careful. BTW, I have already rebuilt my trany
(not the
> overdrive), to give you a lever of commitment.
>
> Thanks for the info,
>
> Scott Mackay
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