Jeremy D. writes:
> I don't quite understand what the manual is talking about
> when it talks about using the "vernier scale" to do these things. Is that
> the little knob on the side? Do I not time this think by turning the whole
> distributor like I'm used to on my other cars? Do I set the point gap while
> the front piston is at TDC? That's sort of what the manual says I think...
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Yes, it's that little knob on the side of the distributor, and in my opinion
one of the greatest little distributor designs. It will allow you to set
the timing in 1 degree increments while the engine is running. With just a
turn of the dial! You set the dist. statically just as you would any other
car by turning the dist. to get it in the ballpark. Make sure the vernier
is set in the middle of it's range. Then with the engine running, and a
good timing light just turn the vernier as required to get the proper
timing. The real advantage of this type of adjustment is it allows you to
advance or retard a 'precise' amount without constantly having a timing
light. Say you have initially set per manufactures specs with a light. You
want to find out how much advance your particular engine will take. You
simply pop under the hood and click one degree at a time until you hear
pinging (pinking) then back off a couple degrees! Or if you find that the
grade of fuel your using isn't up to par, then you can back off a couple of
degrees to prevent knocking.
The point gap is set by looking at the points opening with the lobe on the
distributor. When the lobe is at it's highest (the apex of the lobe is
directly in line with the rubbing block) and the points are open the most is
when you set them. The most accurate way is to use a dwell meter, but
feelers shoould suffice.
Barry Schwartz
Bschwartz@encad.com (San Diego)
72-V6 Spitfire (daily driver)
70 GT6+ (when I don't drive the Spit)
70 Spitfire (project on hold for now)
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