Robert,
A similar problem used to haunt my VW camper. The explaination?
Voltage loss. A VW, with wiring running from the battery (in rear)
to the ignition switch (in front), and back to the soleniod (again
in the rear of vehicle), will not get a twelve volt signal to the
soleniod to get it to properly function. In my case, I had wired an
ammeter to this system in such a way, as to make another front to
rear (of vehicle) trip before the electricity got to the soleniod.
After the 12 volts had traveled the length of my camper 4 times,(rear
to ammeter 1; ammeter to rear 2; rear to ign. switch 3; ign. switch
to soleniod 4), the ign. switch signal to start the car was reduced
to 8 volts! This problem would surface if my battery was run down,
i.e. from excessive night driving, radio play, or storage. But if
my battery was fully charged, the reduction in voltage was not so
great and the VW would start. The temporary cure to get me started
(until I modified the wiring to aleviate the problem) would be to
jump the soleniod directly, just like you did. After I jumped it,
the soleniod would "get better" just like yours did. Maybe the proc-
cess cleans the contact points...
The only reason I relate this tale to you is that this information
came at the expense of many weeks of diagnostic headache.
So... if your starting difficulties arise again, 1) jump the sol-
enoid to get home if nesscessary ; 2) get a volt meter on the lead
that "trips" the solenoid and check for a full 12 volts or; 3) just
get real angry (read ignorant) and blame "old man Lucas" for every
%^&$$'ing problem in the world and the fact that British electrics
are a black curse. Sorry to be so verbose.
JOE IV
TR 250
P.S. Potential voltage robbers: excessive/incorrect wiring; corroded
connectors/switches; low battery volts/bad ground.
P.P.S. WORDS OF WISDOM : Mech./electrical problems don't just "go away"
The Prince of Darkness (Lucas) will never go
away.
O.K. I'm done.
|