Larry,
I have those check valve bleeders on my car and they work great. I never
thought of using them on the clutch, Duh! Good idea.
Craig Wright
Larry Paulick wrote:
> Hi Bob. I have been reading the brake bleeding sequence as posted. The
> books on brakes, the one I have im my library is an HP Book on Brakes by
> Pogh, have always stated to bleed the farthest wheel and work toward the
> closest to the MC.
>
> Manuals from most US car manufacturers also state the same thing. So
> right or wrong, I have been going with the published works of the brake
> experts and US manufacturers.
>
> I designed a new brake system for my MKI, and when sorting it out the
> same advise was given by Wilwood, Baier (spelling), Coleman, Dave Bean
> Engineering, and others.
>
> Their comments were, "Like Of Course Duffus". But, I just asked anyway,
> to confirm what I though I had been reading was correct, according to
> someone else.
>
> I also did not understand why anyone would bleed all of the fluid out of
> the system and start from a brake system with only air. The old seals
> can be severely damaged by having to pump them through the complete
> travel, where they will encounter corrosion, dried brake fluid, etc.,
> that can damage the old seals, much less new ones.
>
> Of course, if it works for you, keep at it.
>
> The best system, that I have used, is a pressure bleed system, going by
> several names, but EZ Bleed (spelling again) is what I use on my other
> cars. It uses low pressure, 5-15 psi, and pressurizes the MC, then you
> just open the bleeder screw. After getting the car up in the air, and
> wheels off, it takes less than 10 minutes to do the bleeding. Pressure
> bleeding is recommended by several car manufacturers who use ABS to get
> the air and old fluid completely out of the system. System is cheap,
> and I think I paid around $35.
>
> Now if I can just find extra MC caps for the Datsun 310 tandem master
> cylinder, I will bleed the Tiger with this system.
>
> Of course there are the bleed screws that have a check valve, where you
> step on the brake, and bleed with this valve open, as the check valve
> stops air from coming into the system when you let off the pedal.
>
> Sounds great, does anyone have experience with this system. Summit has
> them at $10 a pair. I would need 10 bleeder screws to do my brakes, and
> one for the McCloud hydraulic throughout bearing, so I am waiting for
> someone's experience before speeding $60 for bleeder screws.
>
> Anyway, that's my thoughts, and experience. Regular brake bleeding by
> any method is a really good idea that is over looked by many, and well
> worth the discussion.
>
> Larry
|