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Project update 2
Well things didn't go to plan when I made the 2nd pair of blocks and to use
an English phrase you may not be familiar with, I 'ballsed them up'.
However, before attempting to make another pair of blocks I needed to order
some bar because I originally only ordered bar long enough for 2 pairs.
That bar arrived today.
So far I have cut bar for 2 more pairs and drilled them 5/16". After a
while I discovered that WD40 makes drilling aluminium a lot easier and the
chips don't clog or jam on the bit. I haven't test fitted any of the new
sets on my Sprite but have bolted them together in the orientation that was
the best fit (this isn't zero tolerance mass production!). I also then
stamped a single letter on each piece so I have an A / A pair, a B / B pair
and a C / C pair. The stamping are such that it's obvious which way each
pair fits together.
Because each pair of bolts isn't exactly perfect in a centre line plane to
each other I marked the centre point for the anti-roll (sway) bar after
bolting the pair together (the pair of bolt heads were used to get a
reference line, and then drilled 17mm (the recommended size for reaming
11/16"). What that means is that once the pair of blocks is bolted onto
the car the hole for the bar will be exactly 90 degrees from the bolt
holes, even if the blocks themselves aren't. I'm guessing that was what
Motobuild did because both sides of the original blocks have a filed/ground
finish rather than the smooth finish of new bar.
For some reason I ordered a 3/4" reamer rather than an 11/16" reamer so I'm
waiting for the new reamer to arrive but I can drill and then ream my
original blocks to 3/4" to use with a 3/4" bar if I wanted to try one out.
When I do get the 11/16" reamer I have decided to fit each pair of blocks
to the car which may require slight filing of the bolt holes to get them to
fit. Then once they are bolted onto my Sprite I will then ream the hole
for the roll bar while they are on the car which should resolve any slight
movement of each half of the hole . If I do the same thing with the second
pair of blocks the bar ought to be perfectly aligned in both holes.
However, I can also use my C / C pair if they align better with the A / A
pair than the B / B pair, or make another pair. I guess Motobuild must
have done something similar to get matched pairs because while my original
blocks have numbers on them, they aren't consecutive - one pair is 6 / 6
(or 9 / 9) and the pair is 31 / 31.
Other updates - I have sourced some Koni front shock absorbers for the
Frontline kit on my car to replace the original Koni front shock absorbers
that while work ok (perfectly ok) are quite heavily corroded so might not
last another 20+ years. They are also less expensive that the price I was
given by Frontline for AVO Shock absorbers (which was a standard fit on
later kits). They are a slightly different model (the originals were a
special build and NLA) but should work ok (perfectly ok).
Regards
Daniel
On Sat, 1 Jun 2024 at 21:42, Weslake1330 <weslake1330@gmail.com> wrote:
> Well I've made the first 2 blocks and they fit on the car ok - but need
> tidying up. It wasn't as easy as I hoped and I will do a few things
> differently for the second set. After that I have to put the centre in for
> the anti-roll bar - figure on the end of next week.
>
> Regards
>
> Daniel
>
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Project update 2<div><br></div><div>Well things didn't=
go to plan when I made the 2nd pair of blocks and to use an English phrase=
you may not be familiar with, I 'ballsed them up'.</div><div><br><=
/div><div>However, before attempting to make another pair of blocks I neede=
d to order some bar because I originally only ordered bar long enough for 2=
pairs.=C2=A0 That bar arrived today.</div><div><br></div><div>So far I hav=
e cut bar for 2 more pairs and drilled them 5/16".=C2=A0 After a while=
I discovered that WD40 makes drilling aluminium a lot easier and the chips=
don't clog or jam on the bit.=C2=A0 I haven't test fitted any of t=
he new sets on my Sprite but have bolted them together in the orientation t=
hat was the best fit (this isn't zero tolerance mass production!).=C2=
=A0 I also then stamped a single letter on each piece so I have an A / A pa=
ir, a B / B pair and a C / C pair.=C2=A0 The stamping are such that it'=
s obvious which way each pair fits together.</div><div><br></div><div>Becau=
se each pair of bolts isn't exactly perfect in a centre line plane to e=
ach other I marked the centre point for the anti-roll (sway) bar after bolt=
ing the pair together (the pair of bolt heads were used to get a reference =
line, and then drilled 17mm (the recommended size for reaming 11/16").=
=C2=A0 What that means is that once the pair of blocks is bolted onto the c=
ar the hole for the bar will be exactly 90 degrees from the bolt holes, eve=
n if the blocks themselves aren't.=C2=A0 I'm guessing that was what=
Motobuild did because both sides of the original blocks have a filed/groun=
d finish rather than the smooth finish of new bar.</div><div><br></div><div=
>For some reason I ordered a 3/4" reamer rather than an 11/16" re=
amer so I'm waiting for the new reamer to arrive but I can drill and th=
en ream my original blocks to 3/4" to use with a 3/4" bar if I wa=
nted to try one out.</div><div><br></div><div>When I do get the 11/16"=
reamer I have decided to fit each pair of blocks to the car which may requ=
ire slight filing of the bolt holes to get them to fit.=C2=A0 Then once the=
y are bolted onto my Sprite I will then ream the hole for the roll bar whil=
e they are on the car which should resolve any slight movement of each half=
of the hole .=C2=A0 If I do the same thing with the second pair of blocks =
the bar ought to be perfectly aligned in both holes.=C2=A0 However, I can a=
lso use my C / C pair if they align better with the A / A pair than the B /=
B pair, or make another pair.=C2=A0 I guess Motobuild must have done somet=
hing similar to get matched pairs because while my original blocks have num=
bers on them, they aren't consecutive - one pair is 6 / 6 (or 9 / 9) an=
d the pair is 31 / 31.</div><div><br></div><div>Other updates - I have sour=
ced some Koni front shock absorbers for the Frontline kit on my car to repl=
ace the original Koni front shock absorbers that while work ok (perfectly o=
k) are quite heavily corroded so might not last another 20+ years.=C2=A0 Th=
ey are also less expensive that the price I was given by Frontline for AVO =
Shock absorbers (which was a standard fit on later kits).=C2=A0 They are a =
slightly different model (the originals were a special build and NLA) but s=
hould work ok (perfectly ok).</div><div><br></div><div>Regards</div><div><b=
r></div><div>Daniel</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"l=
tr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, 1 Jun 2024 at 21:42, Weslake1330 <<a hr=
ef=3D"mailto:weslake1330@gmail.com";>weslake1330@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br=
></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;=
border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">W=
ell I've made the first 2 blocks and they fit on the car ok - but need =
tidying up.=C2=A0 It wasn't as easy as I hoped and I will do a few thin=
gs differently for the second set.=C2=A0 After that I have to put the centr=
e in for the anti-roll bar - figure on the end of next week.<div><br></div>=
<div>Regards</div><div><br></div><div>Daniel</div></div>
</blockquote></div>
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