Well, that wouldn't seem logical. Keep in mind that air wants to go up and
fluid down. When a drip of fluid comes out of the line, a bubble of air
usually would go in. I would think that would make things worse. All the
air in the lines would have to go all the way up to the MC to bubble out the
top.
When you pump the pedal, you are forcing fresh fluid, that is hopefully air
free, from the MC to the wheel cylinder, and the air and water filled fluid
out the bleed screw. That is why it is important to not shake the bottle of
brake fluid before pouring it in the MC. And most important if using
sillycone brake fluid, which tends to trap a lot of very small bubbles.
Treat new brake fluid gently.
How'm I doing, Ed?
Allen Hefner
Norristown, PA
*Current:*
2006 Chebbie
*Former:*
1963 Sunbeam Alpine Series III
1967 Triumph TR4A IRS
1964 VW Type I
1967 VW Type II
1967 Rover 2000TC
1977 MG Midget
On Mon, May 23, 2011 at 7:54 PM, Tom <ah3000me at gmail.com> wrote:
> Mechanic in Maine suggested open the bleeders and let gravity do the work.
> Does that work, or does the master cylinder prevent that from working?
>
> Two weeks of rain? It seems like forever!!
>
> - Tom
>
>
> On Sun, May 22, 2011 at 4:55 PM, <lindalnhvt at nhvt.net> wrote:
>
> > I just spent quite a while jacking up various wheels and bleeding the
> > brakes of my Sprite. Used an EZ bleed and cleared some air and old fluid.
> > I had good brake pedal pressure for about 30 seconds and now have
> > practically nothing. I can get a little braking if I pump a few times,
> > but it's dangerous at best..
> > I paid a shop to install a new slave cylinder last year and the system
> > hasn't been the same since. At first the gears were grinding and I had
> > them fix it.
> > Do I now need to bleed the slave cylinder? If so, what's the easiest
> > method to get at it.
> > Thanks.
> > Dick Byrne in NH (where it's been raining for two weeks)
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