I believe the zinc and phosphorus issue has been pretty well addressed
by market forces over the past couple of years. There are plenty of
sources currently for "not for road use" lubes (meaning "We don't meet
API OEM standards for reduced ZDDP levels and you shouldn't use this in
your Kia Sorento"). The boutique blenders have them (Redline, Royal
Purple, Joe Gibbs, Schaeffer's etc.) as well as some larger refiners
(BradPenn) and even "giants" (Valvoline). A few things to note however:
1. Valvoline has started applying their "VR-1" branding to non-
racing oils (check the bottle: you DO NOT want an API "sunburst" on the
back telling you it's approved).
2. Real racing oils run in clean motors and the oil does not have
to deal with climatic changes, so there are very low levels of cleaning
detergents (which vintage street cars probably need). Look for
non-approved non-racing oil to get detergents (e.g. BradPenn Hot Rod oil
is one).
3. The old notion that diesel-rated oils will take care of you is
no longer true. Diesel oils have also been reformulated.
4. The oil marketing companies will change their formulations
without changing the name or appearance of the label on the bottle.
5. Too much ZDDP is also bad for cams and tappets. The sweet spot
is between 1300 and 1500 p.p.m. Current API "SM" rated oils are in the
800 p.p.m. range usually. If you use an additive, do a little arithmetic
and figure out how much to add per your sump capacity and your chosen
oil's existing ZDDP level.
6. Search "BobIsTheOilGuy" and "virgin oil analysis" or "VOA" and
your favorite oil, and you may find that a lube geek has already posted
the analysis results for that product.
7. If you are really anal, for $10-15 you can send a sample to a
lab and have it tested (Google is your friend here).
YMMV.
JohnD
Raising donations for pediatric cancer research driving a '52 MG TD on
the Rallye to Reno
Read about it at: www.kidsCURE.blogspot.com
>Cheers!!
>Jim
>P.S. When are we gonna tackle the lack of ZDDP in lubricants for flat
tappet
>engines??
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