Only experience I've had with freeze plugs was with the 1250 engine in my
old TC. I found it one frosty morning sticking out of the side of the block
on a 1/2 inch plug of ice. The plug itself was bowl shaped so that if you
put it back in with the dome shape out, it was a VERY tight fit. Place a
drift against it and smite it with a hammer and the dome shape dimpled
inward spreading the plug to fit tightly in the block again with no leaks.
No need for any kind of sealant. Dunno if this applies to the A series or
not.
Cheers!!
Jim
On Sun, Jul 26, 2009 at 3:26 PM, <WeslakeMonza1330@aol.com> wrote:
> So 'fess up? You loosened the plug without telling the wife to prove you
> were right and needed the extended coverage??
>
> What I've seen UK racers do is drill and tap a small hole to screw in an
> Alen cap scew that overlaps onto the core plug (freeze plug) so it can't
> pop
> out. However, I've never seen one pop out before.
>
> I can't see the point of the silicone as it wouldn't prevent it popping out
> and might in fact help it pop out by lubricating the orifice (!). I'd fit
> dry and make sure it's really fully home.
>
> Weslake-Monza 1330
>
> In a message dated 26/07/2009 16:09:37 GMT Daylight Time,
> g.h.higgins@gmail.com writes:
>
> A 100 mile tow equals $420.00, a few months before my wife cancelled the
> extended coverage with C.A.A., we now have the extended coverage back.
>
> I had removed all of the frost plugs a couple of years ago, the block was
> boiled, and the engine was freshened up. I used some automotive silicone
> on
> the new frost plugs. My question, should I install the new frost plug dry,
> or
> try the silicone again?
> Thanks for any info
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--
Cheers!!
Jim
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I am
not
sure about the former. - Albert Einstein
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