Do the whole brake system. Your wheel cylinders are 'frozen'; rusted to the
point the internal parts are not working. Try bleeding one corner. If it
bleeds, you may be able to use the master cylinder for a while. Do one wheel
at a time, keeping the other wheel on that axle for reference in case you
misplace something. The big boys just replace the whole wheel cylinder.
Parts are available ...and you might mess something up if you have not
rebuilt these before.
Reassemble and bleed that corner. Then on to the other side; then on to the
other axle. You'll probably have to replace the master cylinder somewhere in
here. Again, new parts are preferred over rebuilt. I have rebuilt several
hundred systems, and one time out of a hundred a working master cylinder
will go bad while I am doing only the wheel cylinders.
Inspect the brake linings and drums while you are at it. Maybe even the
front wheel bearings and wheel seals. Take your time. Use DOT 3 brake fluid,
not the silicon based DOT 5 which can cause the rubber seals to swell.
...bill in Oregon
=========================================================================
-----Original Message-----
From: spridgets-bounces+corvallis=peoplepc.com@autox.team.net
[mailto:spridgets-bounces+corvallis=peoplepc.com@autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of rrengineer@dslextreme.com
Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 11:26 PM
To: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spridgets] Hard Brake Pedal
Now that my Bugeye is running so good, I am concentrating in other problem
areas such as the brakes. I still have drums all the way around. I know,
I need discs in the front, but the parts have not come my way yet. The
problem is I have a very hard brake pedal, but very little braking power.
Actually less than I had when I first put the car together eight years
ago. Also, when I make a panic stop, the car swerves to the right and
left! Not a good thing. Before I start taking eveything apart, anyone
have any ideas where to concentrate my search?
Mike MacLean
60 Sprite
56 BN2
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