I've had engines in and out of our two race Midgets so many times I've
lost count.
The slowest parts were often the slave cylinder (got a mod for that, too)
and getting the damned radiator out. Some time ago I fixed the shrouds
on both cars so that the top of the shroud and the radiator all come out
with four bolts.
I cut through the shroud on either side a few inches from the top. I
made two small aluminum plates for each side to "repair" the cut, using
three bolts on each-- two to hold the plate to the bottom part of the
shroud and one to hold the top. I used T nuts on all of these so there
because you can't otherwise access the inside of the shroud. I also
replaced the two bolts on the bottom of the radiator with two studs.
I remove the radiator by removing the two small bolts that fasten the
forward part of the shroud to the nosepiece on the car and the two bolts
that hold the small aluminum plates to the top part of the shroud on
either side. Since the studs on the bottom of the radiator are not
bolted to the bottom of the shroud, I can then just lift the radiator
out. I leave the two bolts that go through the top of the shroud to the
radiator in place, so the top part of the shroud and the radiator come
out together.
Reassembly, as they say, is the reverse.
I've got some pictures somewhere if you are interested.
David Littlefield
On Tue, 12 Jun 2007 16:29:02 -0400 "Deikis, John G" <John.Deikis@va.gov>
writes:
> So, maybe one of you clever guys can give me some ideas for
> simplifying
> the radiator-and-shroud R&R on a stock-bodied Spridget. Seems like
> the
> way it wedges in above the little valence behind the grill, it
> doesn't
> need all those machine bolts and de-captivated captive nuts. Has
> anyone
> tried any simple modification? Vice grips? Zip-ties? Arc welding?
>
>
>
> It's a stock cross-flow rad with all the stock shrouding in place.
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