Thanks Derf,
The horn and high-beams mysteriously fixed themselves today. I guess
I'll keep and eye on them and see if they stay fixed. This horn has 4
leads going to it, so all of them are positive? I'm a little puzzled by
the spridget fuse block. For instance, how does the red/green wire
coming into the right side of fuse #4 power the left sides of both fuse
#3 and #4? I'm imagining it's jumpered somehow but it's not really
apparent how this is happening. As far as adding relays I'd like to but
I'm having a hard time wrapping my brain around how how they work and
how to install them. If anyone has a link to installing relays for
dummies please send it my way.
Ran some Gunk engine flush stuff through the engine before changing the
oil and installing the oil cooler this morning. Seemed like it might be
snake oil but the one armed man at the Autozone store swore by it, so I
figured I take his word. Anyway, after the flush, oil change and oil
cooler install the oil pressure is up 10 psi across the board.
Previously it ran 10 psi at hot idle and around 40 psi at 4000 rpm. Now
I've got 20 psi at hot idle and 50 psi at 4000 rpm. Can't complain about
that. One thing that is a little odd though is that the engine runs a
little hotter according to the temp gauge. It normally runs at 7:00 and
not it runs at 6:00 or right on the "N". I imagine this is due to the
decreased air flow. I put the oil cooler in the upper of the two
positions. I guess I need to go back in flip the brackets over to lower
it. At least it keeps me out of trouble........
Thanks again,
Robert
derf wrote:
> Horn wire should be hot. Button, contact, and switch form the ground
> when pushed.
> Test light placed between horn contact and ground should come on.
> Horn probably bad. Install relay and Freeway Blaster horn. Or, see
> if you can get RREngineer guy to send you one from his employer.
> Cheers,
> Derf
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