Maybe not "hamfisted" but there a few tricks. You want to fit the
cotter with the kinpin perpendicular to the spring pan, otherwise
it's hard to get the alignment best. I use a "suitable drift" (second
favorite Haynes expression right after "reverse removal procedure") a
straight pin punch works, and you can hit it to get it right., Then
the pin will go in without any hammering. BTDT. You really don't
need a hardened pin.... you're just keeping it tight until the rust
seizes it up.
Peter C
==
At 05:22 PM 1/8/2007, Daniel1312@aol.com wrote:
>Hi List,
>
>I've just had problems with the cotter pin / taper pin that locks the king
>pin to the fulcrum pin. The first pin simply wouldn't go through
>far enough to
>get a nut on the thread but I only discovered this after first destroying a
>nut and then the thread. For the second pin I decided to file it
>down a bit so
>it would tap through further but it fared little better than the 1st one.
>
>With the 3rd pin I filed for longer and it tapped through a very long way
>indeed and using a fairly chewed up nut (last spare nut) it fitted OK.
>
>Is it normal to need to file the pin - due to -remake/pattern parts not being
>quite the same as the original? Or am I hamfisted?
>
>Anyone (Ron Soave?) ever successfully used AN386 taper pins and if so can
>they advise the part number so I can buy some from www.aircraftspruce.com
>
>Thanks
>
>Daniel
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