Thanks again to all for your help with me ignition problems. I'm happy to
report that Bugsy is running now better than he ever has in the 5+ years I've
owned him. Pulling the distributor once again I discovered that I had wires
connected wrong inside the distributor and had the insulator in the wrong
place. A new set of points to replace the Lucas POS that I trashed out and the
Lucas OEM that was so pitted I can't believe car actually started, along with a
even more chewed up distributor cap that was replaced, resulted in Bugsy
starting on just about 1/2 turn of the crank. All of a sudden there is power
there that I had no idea Bugsy had in him.
For those of you who have left ignition things alone as car seems to be
running and you are a little worried about pulling distributor out to mess with
the ignition, don't be. This really turned out to be a simple job and the
performance difference that resulted is incredible. After the third time taking
distributor in and out I was able to get the removal and reinstallation time
down to less than 5 minutes. No not as quick as Frank but I now understand how
simple this really is to do. Other than putting insulator in the wrong place
when attaching wires to the points, it's pretty hard to screw this one up.
On another subject. I've got a '69 1275 in the back of the garage that will
be a future transplant for Bugsy's 1098. That engine has a mechanical advance
distributor on it. I swapped caps and wires from this engine but wonder what if
any advantage may be in using this distributor rather than the exisiting vacumn
advance distributor. Single set of points, no Petronix discovered under the cap
or anything special like that but I'm sure a '69 1275 did not come with a
mechanical advance distributor installed. Any ideas what I might have here?
Thanks again.
Jim Gruber
Bugsy '68 Sprite (future Bugeye in disguise)
Cincinnati, OH
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