Me again,
I had followed this excellent procedure:
http://www.wideopenwest.com/~kottage/tech/1500_bearings.html
However, here are a couple of observations. Please bear in mind I am not a
mechanic and YMMV:
1. Read the Haynes book as well. For example, Haynes tells you to remove any
protective coating on the bearings before installation.
2. I could not roll the new bearing around the crankshaft. I had to first
move the old one around with a pick (as directed) and then insert the new shell
into the gap and then roll it around. (The old one rolls around and falls out).
3. The front main bearing was a PITA to remove. I have a set of 4 Kobalt
picks but I could only budge the old bearing 1/8". After about an hour of
frustration, I got a long thin screwdriver (for more leverage), bent the tip
slightly in the vice and filed it to a sharp point. The shell then came out in
2 seconds. I am the man!
4. On this car at least, I had to bend back (with vice-grips) some of the
sheet metal underbody so I could get a straight shot at the front main bearing
cap bolts. Even so, the bolt heads were very slightly rounded off after I got
them out. (There is no room for a swivel socket).
5. Replacing the front sealing block was an unexpected PITA. There are 2
little gaskets and 2 pieces of wood to keep in place. (This is upside down
under a grimy car, trying to keep everything spotlessly clean).
I manged to do it after several atttempts but then the sealing block was
sitting proud of the engine block. I ditched the gaskets and one piece of wood
(used some silicone sealant instead).
6. You may want to magnetize your longest screwdriver so you can replace the 2
screws in the front of the engine that help hold the sealing block. Getting
the other bolt back in the timing cover is also an exercise in patience.
7. The day before, I permatexed the gasket to the pan so it wouldn't move on
final assembly.
8. Mark the bearing caps before diassembly so they can be replaced in the
proper postion!
Hope this helps someone.
Regards, Adrian 1500
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