I'm sure someone will argue with this, but this is what I do.
I first prep the oil pan by making sure the edges of the bolt hole are
not pulled up from the flanges. I usually take the peen end of a hammer
and tap them down to the surface or even countersink them a little.
If I'm using the cork seals I soak them in oil first, preferably
overnight. I then put them in the grooves in the oil pan. I DO NOT TRIM
THEM! You'll see that in some instructions and I'm sure other people
will tell you this is something you must do, but I find they work best if
I leave them the original length.
I prefer using the nitrile seals if I have them, but it seems to be a
crapshoot on what you get when you order gaskets.
I then put RTV on the pan and put the paper gaskets on the pan. I put
more RTV on top of the paper gasket. I'll dab a little RTV on the block
in the four places that the outside bearing caps meet the block. IOW,
where the ends of the cork seals go.
When offering up the oil pan I might use longer bolts in those areas
since the untrimmed cork seals might hold the pan too far away to use the
standard size. I'll then replace them with the standard size. It seems
that leaving the cork seals untrimmed forces all the cork material down
into the groove and makes a better seal.
-- David Littlefield
I use RTV on both sides of the long paper gaskets, sealing the gaskets to
the pan fir
On Thu, 19 Oct 2006 19:19:37 -0400 "Phil Nase" <nase@ptd.net> writes:
> I have the oil pan off and I am about to install new oil pan to
> block
> gaskets and sump seals front and rear.
>
> Should I put them all on dry or use a sealant? I have some gasket
> dressing
> and some RTV high temp silicone gasket maker to use if I should.
>
> What's the word on slowing down the oil seepage?
>
> Phil Nase
> Quakertown, PA
|