I made my current pulley by turning down a big (approx. 4 or 5 inch
diameter) chunk of steel. It took forever. It would be much simpler to
machine a hub and bolt an off-the-shelf pulley and harmonic balancer to
it. I don't know what off-the-shelf items would work. Suggestions?
Does anyone run an electric pump? Would it be vintage legal?
If you're running hot enough to form steam, you can always increase the
block pressure by changing the radiator cap. However, I've seen problems
which I suspected were due to too much block pressure. I'm hard headed,
so it took a while for Kramer to convince me not to run more than a 7
psi cap. With separate liners that protrude above the block deck, our
engines have many places to develop leaks at high pressure. A better
solution is to install a higher capacity radiator. This is one of the
best mods I've done. Mine is a commodity Chevy radiator that I got from
Speedway Motors for about $150. For a TR3, you'll have to cut off the
filler neck and weld a patch over the hole. I fill thru an expansion
tank mounted on the firewall, but it would be better to have a neck
welded into the thermostat housing. I have enough to worry about when
I'm racing, this eliminated one of them.
Henry Frye wrote:
At 07:45 PM 03/25/2005 -0800, Bill Babcock wrote:
It would be a very worthwhile endeavor to get a smaller crankshaft
pulley
or a larger waterpump pulley. We probably need about 60-70 percent of
the
pump speed we have now. It would require some testing and some
engineering,
but it seems like a worth project. Ken--have you ever considered doing
something to fiddle with the pulley ratios?
Remember, slowing down the water pump will further reduce the coolant
pressure in the block. You want decent coolant pressure in the block
to quench the steam bubbles that will form, and the inherent poor
coolant flow towards the rear of the block makes #4 the target for
localized overheating.
I'd be cautious with this approach to finding more ponies, especially
if you have had cylinder #4 overheating issues.
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