--- "Paul A. Asgeirsson"
<Pasgeirsson@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
...
> But I haven't heard if you looked at the dimmer
> switch to see if the hot lead is on the correct
terminal.... Testing the headlights up front with a
test lead sounds like they are operational, but seems
like you're by passing the loom to do this...
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Yes I am/have. Due to the fact that the steering
column mounted switches were all trashed (as were all
other switches) I have put in new toggle switches for
everything (push button for horn).
I did use existing wires were ever possible. for a
headlight switch I installed a new on/off toggle
switch with hot wire to it. From it to the hi/low beam
switch (a new two way toggle switch, with off at the
center) I ran the wire that the on/off toggle
controls. From the dimmer I ran the existing red/blue
and white/blue wires to the headlights.Those are the
ones (UR and UW) that I used for my test.
I just came from the auto parts store. Bought new
head-lamp plug ins and 14 gauge red wire and green
wire. The plan is to run a hi beam circuit from the
dimmer to both headlights with red wire and a low beam
circuit to both headlights with green wire (bypassing
the existing loom altogether except as it applies to
tail lights) Will use new Black ground circuit that is
directly hooked to the batt. neg terminal.
If this doesn't work, it's back to trying to find a
virgin to sacrifice to Lord Lucas.:-{
cheers, bill b. 69 Sprite
Yah, I know, can't blame Lucas for bodged wiring everytime.
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/spridgets
|