Keith,
Here is my very short answer.
Do what YOU want to do; not what the popular vote says to do.
Be realistic about your costs and then add 20% and see if it is within your
budget.
I've made the next statement dozens of times and few people take my advice. You
are
better off, both from a structural standpoint as well as financially, to find a
rust-free shell (or even a new shell), no matter where it is and pay the costs
to
ship it.
Get a car from the Southeastern part of the U.S. or a new shell from England.
Surf
the web.
Jay Fishbein
Been There; Done That. Both Ways
1963 Sprite Mk II
1974 Midget
Innocenti 950
Innocenti S
Keith Ickes wrote:
> Here is the situation. I have had a 1958 Austin Healey Sprite (Bugeye) since
> 1969. When I bought the car it had over 140,000 miles on it and although the
> speedometer never worked while I was actively driving the car, I know that I
>put
> many thousands of miles on it since. I parked it in 1972 and have never driven
> it since. Several other restorations and modifications of other cars have
> intervened and now I am thinking about getting back to this car. But I am very
> undecided about what to do. The car is presently totally dissasembled and is
> down to a bare frame/body shell (with the exception of one rear spring that
>was
> apparently welded in place at some time).
>
> The car was originally from Pennsylvania - which nmeans lots of road salt back
> then. So here are the body problems:
>
> - the valence on the bonnet is badly dented (numerous times) and torn
>in
> places.(needs a new valence)
>
> - both lower front "corners" on the bonnet rusted out before I
> originally got the car and were patched with tin and bondo. There is a sizable
> inverted 'V' shaped gap where the seam should be when all of the bondo is
> removed. One fender is also warped from having the corner pulled in to close
>the
> gap (needs two new front fenders)
>
> -rocker panel(both inner and outer) on the drivers side is gone
>(rusted
> to a fine filligree) I have a new rocker.
>
> - rocker panel on passenger side was replaced before I bought the car
> but was welded on so poorly that it does not line up correctly with other
>panels
> (could be fiddled with to fit)
>
> - rear fender panel behind the drivers door has a large rust hole and
> needs at least a patch plate (I have the replacement patch part.
>
> - the lower edge of the back of both rear fenders is totally rusted
>out
>
> - the rear fender on the passenger side has a large rust hole above
>the
> wheel opening, a major dent behind the wheel, and a hacked up replacement
>panel
> behind the door. The replacement panel needs to be replaced.
>
> - in general, it needs new fenders
>
> - seam along the very back of the trunk and rear body panel is rusted
> out and will need replaced
>
> - drivers floor pan needs replaced, as does the front and rear corner
>of
> the passenger side floor pan.
>
> - after stripping all the paint I find that there were several repairs
> to the cowl and areas behind the passenger seat that were leaded in many years
> ago (the car has had at least 4 or 5 paint jobs)
>
> - 1098cc engine (replaced when the 948 put a rod through the engine
> side wall). Engine needs to be overbored .030 and new pistons alone cost $200+
> (and then it is still a 1098).
>
> - ribcase transmission - will not go into second gear at all -
> currently dismantled and trying to identify the problem.
>
> - currently drum brakes all around and original rear dif
>
> Here is my conundrum - what do I do with this?
>
> Options so far.
>
> Under any circumstance, is it worth trying to repair the steel bonnet?
> The center section with the headlights is in perfect shape and I guess could
>be
> of value to someone else. With so much repair, would it be better to just buy
>an
> fiberglass copy of the original bonnet and not repair the steel one?)
>
> I figure that I can buy the needed body panels from England for about
> $3,500 and then labor to weld them all on correctly $?) So, for maybe
> $6,000-$7,000 and a lot of my time and effort I could have a somewhat restored
> Bugeye (which will never be very great because of the patches and bondo and
>lead
> still on the car). It would be a fair to middlin' car - low on power and low
>on
> resale value. I admit I have grown accustomed to much speedier driving options
> in the last 32 years and this seems rather boring. I would probably want to
>sell
> it.
>
> A second option is to do all of the body work ($$$) and then upgrade
>to
> a 1275 (?$$$) and a five speed Rivergate conversion, front disk brakes, nice
> wheels (wire or minilite-like). The car would still lack real vintage value
>due
> to all the repairs, but it would be a little speedier and might have some curb
> appeal.
>
> A third option is to replace the engine with another more powerful
>one -
> Mazda 13B rotary, Toyota twincam, ??? and a five speed transmission. Put a
> fiberglass racing bonnet on it with flared fenders. Replace the rear fenders
> with full flared fiberglass replacements. Go to 6" or 7" wide wheels all
>around
> and lower profile, wider tires (175/50 or 215/50). There is a yellow Sprite on
> PDLJMPR with an Alfa engine that seems like a good model. Either an
>independent
> rear suspension (I have done one of these before) or strengthened axles in the
> original dif. Originality is gone, obviously, but the original parts of the
>car
> have been eaten away anyway. The result would be a fun car (significant speed,
> possibly autocross) but would require lots of work on my part to carry it all
> off.
>
> So colleagues, how go your votes and suggestions?
>
> So far, I am not contemplating selling it since I have had it for so
> long. But if I can't find a viable solution, or if the recommendation seems to
> be that it is beyond reasonable repair, then I might be willing to part it
>out.
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