Today I received a new (repro) starter switch for the Bugeye. I was
hoping that this would fix my problem with the overheating starter pull
wire. I had already rebuilt the starter, so I installed it tonight and
pulled the starter pull knob and watched the wire again. Well, guess
what boys and girls, it STILL gets hot! The only component left in the
starter circuit that is still in question is the negative cable from the
battery to the starter switch. I bought the cable from Norman Nock. I
was looking for a helmet head battery cable for the negative side.
After many calls, Norman's company in Stockton, California said they had
a repro. I ordered it and waited. When it arrived the darn thing was
too short. I went to the welding supply store and bought a length of
matching type cable. I added about 8 inches to the helmet head cable by
intertwining the separate wires beneath the outer sheath and sweat
soldering the whole mess together. I then just wrapped electrical tape
around the area. Not exactly concours, but I thought it would work
until I could find a longer replacement.
Does the resistance generated by this lousy connection have
something to do with the problem? The joint is between the battery and
the starter switch, the heat generated in the pull wire is on the other
side of the joint. Does that matter?
Unless someone tells me that my electrical surgery should not cause
a problem, tomorrow I will get a generic battery cable of sufficient
length and try again. There isn't much left to replace.
Mike MacLean-60 Sprite
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