You could be fooled by a continuity test, if using a multimeter
set to Rx1. That setting (or a cheap meter default) could show no
needle movement at 100 ohms and you will think , great, no
continuity. A little jiggling or the dynamic resistance might also
create complications.
Conversely I once accepted a used brake switch because it showed
continuity at Rx1000, but it wouldn't pass enough current to lite
up the brake lites. (Used a mechanical switch till the next
flush).
Mike L.
60A,67E.59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From Mike Maclean <macleans at earthlink.net>
To: Bryan Vandiver <bryan.vandiver@sun.com>;
<spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: January 29, 2001 1:45 PM
Subject: Re: Burning issue.
> Bryan,
> Tried the starter again last night with a new ground. Saw
sparks coming
> from the starter! Have pulled the starter this morning and am
taking it to an
> auto electric place after I type this. Also did a continuity
test on the
> solenoid with the shaft pulled. Continuity across the
connections, but none
> from either connection to the shaft.
> Mike
>
> Bryan Vandiver wrote:
>
> > Mike,
> >
> > I've converted my bugeye over to negative ground, but I'm
still using
> > the original pull starter solenoid. It definitly sounds like
yours is
> > grounding through the starter pull cable. I'd have to check,
but my pull
> > starter might be isolated from the dash, but with the way it
bolts to
> > the back of the dash with a star washer , I doubt it. I'm not
sure
> > about the internal workings of your pull switch, but it could
be it is
> > shorting to the housing. The only reason the 'pull' didn't get
hot, when
> > it was broken off, because it was no longer shorting through
the dash.
> > You might want to try another pull switch, if you have a
spare.
> >
> > - Bryan
> >
> > Mike Maclean wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm at wit's end over this starter pull cable. It gets hot
enough to
> > > change the temper of the metal cable and make it very
brittle. After a
> > > couple dozen pulls to start the car it snaps off right at
the connector
> > > that connects to the starter switch. I initially thought it
was a bad
> > > ground. I changed the position of the ground from the bell
housing bolt
> > > on the trans to the clutch slave cylinder. Still hot. My
friend that
> > > sold me the car helps me work on it when I have a difficult
problem and
> > > he encountered the same problem with it when he tried to
start it and
> > > snapped the cable off again. He applied a huge jumper cable
from an
> > > engine mounting bolt on the engine side of the rubber and
the other end
> > > of it to the engine mounting bolt for the bracket on the
frame, in
> > > effect another ground (engine to positive ground body).
What is
> > > perplexing is you could pull on the connector (wire snapped
off) and it
> > > was not hot! So, I thought the problem was solved. I
stopped at Pep
> > > Boys on the way home and bought a universal woven copper
ground cable
> > > about 8 inches long.
> > > Today I installed the ground cable where my friend had
the jumper
> > > cable and sweat silver soldered a new bicycle cable into the
starter
> > > pull button to finish the repair. I just pulled on it a
couple of times
> > > with the ignition off and it got real hot just like before.
Huh?
> > > Is the starter pull cable grounding on the instrument panel?
Or, is the
> > > starter drawing too many amps? Is the small ground strap I
just
> > > installed inadequate for the amount of amps flowing through
the
> > > (defective?) starter? Is the starter solenoid (switch)
defective?
> > > I don't know where to look first.
Ahrrrrrrrrrrrg!!!!!!
> > > Mike MacLean-60 Sprite
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