ryan marro wrote:
> My distributor has the "tin man's hat" (vacuum capsule) on it, but has a
> rubber cover over the nipple that should/would connect to the carburettor.
> Does this mean that it should be a vacuum advance dizzy but is not
> benefitting from a vacuum supplied by the carburettor?
Yes. It is a 25D and it should be connected to the carbs.
A 23D has no "tin mans hat"
> How would this
> affect performance and/or economy (most probably negatively, but how?
The vacuum from accelerating draws the advance mechanism further thus
advancing the timing to the load of the engine. (something like that)
Check the vacuum unit before hooking it up.
Put a tight fitting hose on it, and with your mouth, suck on the hose.
Yeah, it sounds gross so use a new hose.
If you can not suck air out of the tin mans hat (I like that name) the
vaccuum unit is fine. If you get air, there is a hole in the unit.
It needs to be replaced (or plugged)
If you remove the dizzy cap and suck on the hose, you should see the
points plate move, not much maybe 1/8 to 1/4 inch depending on how well
you suck ;)
> Should I get the line
> to connect to the carbs, or should I just pull the guts and put in
> electronic ignition? What's the consensus (like the list could come to >
>one) on what the best electronic set-up is?
Unless you change to a full mechanical advance dizzy, hook up the vacuum
unit for peak performance.
Does it require a different coil?
No.
> Should I also go ahead and switch over to an alternator?
Most definatley! But the GM alternator is too big, it works fine it just
looks like it belongs on a Chevy V8 not a Spridget.
--
Happy Healeydays
Frank Clarici
Toms River, NJ
Too Many Sprites Again
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