Frank,
Haven't posted to the list in a long time but taking a break from the hectic
work schedule I saw this post and had to add my pitiful 2 cents to the idea
pile.
Sounds like the gas mixture is too lean for cold starts to me. Choke not
really engaging? My Weber (Downdraft DGV) gave me lots of fits until I
learned to pump the gas to squirt lots of gas into the cylinders when it's
cold. Are you running a DCOE on any of the other Sprites? All Webers have
always had a reputation to be very susceptible to fuel pressure variations.
How's the fuel pump? Tested it when it's cold? If plugs are not very wet
after a minute or two of trying to start it, then I vote for not enough gas
since you've tried most of the electrical stuff. As I said, only my 2 cents
and that's all it's worth.
As for the clutch problem in your other post, I vote with Toby on a heat
related air leak. How is the hydraulic clutch line routed in this vehicle
compared to others? Closer to the exhaust system? Since it happens so
quickly I'd look for proximity of exhaust pipe to Clutch hydraulics and
suspect the area where they are the closest to each other. Good luck.
Dick
1977 Midget
1954 MGTF
----- Original Message -----
From "Frank Clarici" <spritenut at Exit109.com>
To: "Spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 18, 2000 8:12 PM
Subject: Kids, Cars, and a no start LBC
> Gang
>
> Can someone please explain to me WHY my daughters A40 just refuses to
> start when it's cold?
>
> This Fall she did buy her own Mitchibitchi but already sold it because
> she learned herself that Jap cars .... oh never mind, but atleast she
> learned a lesson. Now she is back in the drivers seat of the A40, for
> any new listers it is basically a Sprite with an Italian styled body but
> made in England by BMC. 1275 engine rear wheel drive.
> It just never starts when it's cold.
> I removed the ballist resistor coil so it has a regular coil now. I
> thought this was my problem last year. Apparently not. I have replaced
> the starter since last year, the timing is where I think the trouble
> lies because if zI retard the timing it starts but it pops and sputters
> when driving because the timing is too far retaded. Once it fires up I
> have to advance it so it runs properly.
> I have replaced the dizzy, the valves are adjusted fine, the battery is
> new and the alternator shows 14+ volts on the volt gauge.
> This is driving me and my daughter nuts.
> This morning I had to jump start it with a Sprite, now the Sprite was
> sitting next to it and just as cold but it fired right up. Just for
> laughs, I fired up all 3 Sprites and no problems with any of them just
> the A40. I went thru this all last winter. I have even cut the wire to
> the radio memory and rewired the power windows thru the ignition so
> there is nothing on over night.
> The Starter just weezes out just before it kicks every time, it does
> this for 10 minutes and then the battery is dead. If I retard the dizzy,
> it starts but then I have to advance it so it runs decent. This should
> not be.
> What the heck is wrong? Too much compression maybe? It is a stock 12cc
> high compression engine with new rings and bearings, no rebore, no head
> skim.
> Carburation is a 40 DCOE Weber, never any problems with it and it has a
> cold start hooked up.
> I am open for suggestions.
> --
>
> Happy Healeydays
> Frank Clarici
> Toms River, NJ
> Too Many Sprites Again
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