dupont centauri is my choice for a trouble free finish. it will chip! if
your chips are not too large you can build paint in the depressions and
after proper hardening wet sand them and buff to get an almost undetectable
repair. doing a blend (spot repair) is not so easy. i would recomend doing
complete panels if you must paint anything . preperation for a blend and
execution of a sucessfull spot repair is in the surface preperation and
proper color match . otherwise you can get a real horrible looking
partially painted panel with "very" noticable color shade difrences. if you
paint an entire panel it provides you with body lines(seams, joints and
jambs) where it is far less likely to detect a minor color shade difrence.
unless you work for a body shop and have all the cool state of the art
chemicals available like atb(acrylic topcoat blender) for getting a spot
repair to melt into the old finish (melt, that is what it looks like but not
technically what it does), i would strongly sugest doing an entire panel but
not the entire car! but before doing a panel, buff all surrounding painted
panels. and properly wipe down entire surface to be painted with a cleaner
such as kleecar or precleano to remove "all" wax, silicone(from polishes)
and oil and tar from the surface you are going to paint before you do any
sanding!!!! sanding will grind unwanted chemicals into the surface you want
to paint and will result in what are called fish eyes. there is a cheater
chemical for beating fish eyes! it contains a bit of silicone and is used
about 1 drop per mixed quart of paint. it is referred to as fish eye
killer. but! there is a down hill to this wonderfull additive!!! if you
ever paint that panel again, it must be added to the paint being applied or
adhesion (or fish eyes) will follow in the refinishing of that panel in the
future. aaahhh the black art of automotive refinishing. better living
through alchemy! still trying to get lead to turn into gold, man i got a
bunch of old wheel weights i keep checking but they are still dirty old
lead!
chuck.
so like ya haddta ask huh? another megga post on body work and all the fun
you can have at home with hazzardous chemicals!.....c. :)
----- Original Message -----
From ryan marro <ryan_marro at hotmail.com>
To: <cfchrist@earthlink.net>; <Daniel1312@aol.com>; <spritenut@Exit109.com>;
<mhanna@ball.com>
Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2000 4:11 PM
Subject: Re: paint
> Okay, so the paint on my car is DuPont "Centauri" Acrylic Enamel. The
> primer (a sand color) was also DuPont. How long will it last? I already
> have lots of stone chips in the front of the car. Should I repaint it in
> these areas? How much difference do layers make? How many are enough? I
> think mine may be too thin (hence the small stone chips).
> Ryan
>
>
> >From: "Charles Christ" <cfchrist@earthlink.net>
> >Reply-To: "Charles Christ" <cfchrist@earthlink.net>
> >To: <Daniel1312@aol.com>, <spritenut@Exit109.com>, <mhanna@ball.com>
> >CC: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: paint
> >Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 09:44:47 -0000
> >
> >waaaayyyy back in the early days of enamel paint (straight enamel) there
> >was
> >nitrocelulose laquer. it was what evry laquer job up into the 60's was
> >done with.(btw! most old laquers were photochemically reactive, the clear
> >yellowed, and colors faded when exposed to direct bright light!, hence
cars
> >stored in garages with a window on one side and not on the other in some
> >cases were 2 difrent colors from window side fading) then came along
> >acrylic laquer. and along came catalised acrylic enamel . acrylic
enamel
> >with a hardner you added to make the paint "cure" faster and more
resistant
> >to damage. a straight enamel paint takes almost a year to completly
> >harden
> >or dry without baking in a heated spray booth. the stuff was an instant
> >shine paint job in an era of laquer needing to be buffed after sanding
with
> >evry paint job done. the enamel was cool for it's time. now we have
epoxy
> >based paints water based paints, base coat clear coat paints and a myriad
> >of
> >manufacturers whose names for the same products do not readthe same.
> >another suprise in the paint world is............if you are using dupont
> >paint, use all dupont materials(thinner etc.) and the same goes for
sikens
> >and so forth. you can get into a real bind with some product
> >incompatibility if you try to mix manufacturers materials. and after it
> >comes out of the spray gun is too late to find out you made a mistake!
> >
> >chuck.
> >i was spraying acrylic enamel this morning! geez! it was 17 degrees
> >outside this morning when i went out to the shop.
> >bbbrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!...............c. :)
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <Daniel1312@aol.com>
> >To: <spritenut@Exit109.com>; <mhanna@ball.com>
> >Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2000 8:25 AM
> >Subject: paint
> >
> >
> > > Is this what we would call cellulose?
> > >
> > > In a message dated 30/11/00 18:08:06 Pacific Standard Time,
> > > spritenut@Exit109.com writes:
> > >
> > > << This time I shot enamel with a catalyst hardener. >>
>
>
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