David,
First - run the valves.
Larry
>>>>On 11/18/00 4:21 PM so and so (DLancer7676@cs.com) said. (And I quote:)
>My '79 Midget (1500) is running like crap. Seems like everything is going
>wrong at one time. You might remember I wrote the list about the exhaust
>header cracking--I welded it and used the furnace cement to seal a leak.
>BUT
>in re welding it, the pipe did not set the way it came out of the car, so it
>is banging against the frame, plus, when It cracked apart, I noted that
>there
>were restrictions inside the pipe--indicated that it was a home made unit.
>
>Also, the engine won't idle worth a crap. It doesn't die, but it is rough,
>and I can set the idle at 1000 in my driveway but when I drive it, it drops
>to about 500 and stumbles. Set it again to 1000, it again drops on its own
>to 500 or less. Power is reduced---acceleration is not as good as it used
>to
>be. Running about 60 it seems to purr right along---no engine misses at all.
>
>It is leaking oil like a cracked dam. The leaking oil ends up on the
>exhaust
>and I go down the road smoking.
>
>And to top it all off, my radiator has developed a leak. I put some of that
>stop leak stuff in it but I noted that it just ended up all over the lower
>radiator hose, like it had sprayed all over it from the radiator leak.
>
>Here is what I plan to do. If there is anything else I might need to attend
>to, please let me know: I am going to pull the engine AND tranny, which
>requres removal of the radiator as well. I plan to pull everything on the
>engine that has a gasket or oil seal and replace all gaskets and seals with
>new gaskets and blue silicone. While the timing chain cover is off replace
>the 2 year old timing chain. I plan to pull the head to check out the
>valves--maybe regrind if needed), exhaust and intake ports, and upper
>cylinder, and replace the head gasket. Same with the tranny--replace all
>gaskets and seals that could be leaking oil. Send the radiator in to the
>radiator shop for a leak check and repair. During Engine reassembly, I will
>replace the plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotory button (I have Crane
>electronic ignition, thus no points). I have a new Paceseter Exhaust
>Header--I will replace the old header and take the car to the Muffler shop
>after replacing the engine to have the header fitted to my exhaust pipe,
>which is only about 6 months old. Oh--I plan also to rent a steamer and
>steam the engine compartment, tranny tunnel, bottom of the car and wheel
>wells to remove all the oil that is now clinging to everything from the
>massive leaks.
>
>This seems like a lot of stuff, but the cost here is very minimal.
>Hopefully
>this will get the "bug" out of my car and return it to running like the top
>it used to be. Comments please!
>
>---David C.
Larry Macy
78 Midget
Keep your top down and your chin up.
Larry B. Macy, Ph.D.
macy@bblmail.psycha.upenn.edu
System Manager/Administrator
Neuropsychiatry Section
Department of Psychiatry
University of Pennsylvania
3400 Spruce St. - 10 Gates
Philadelphia, PA 19104
Ask a question and you're a fool for three minutes; do not ask a
question and you're a fool for the rest of your life.
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