Hey Robert. If you want, you can pull the valve springs with the head in
the car. Pull the plugs and fill one cyl at a time with rope - we used to
have a nice, smooth-sided rope available - maybe you have to use nylon
now. Then carefully turn the engine over until the rope is snugly filling
the cyl and supporting the valve head. Now you can ever-so-cleverly remove
the collet and keepers and springs and slip on a seal.
Okay - it's wierd science and old as hell, but it works. I wonder if I'll
get flamed for this heresy… I, too, wondered about seals on all. Not
using seals on exhaust valves might aid in lubricating the guide, which
would end up getting burned. I sealed them anyway.
David McCartney
=========================================================
Robert Weeks wrote:
> I've been curious about this also. When I rebuilt my engine I had a
> head that was only a few months old that had seals on the intake and
> exhaust valves. When I ran the engine with this head everything was
> just fine. I had purchased that head from VB when I was hoping to
> weasel my way out of a complete rebuild.
>
> After I finished the engine and got the car back on the road, I took
> an old head to the machine shop and had the head magnafluxed, decked,
> and new guides, valves, and seats installed to make it a lead free
> head. The mechanic insisted that I only needed seals on the intake
> valves. When I put that head on the car I started getting that lovely
> burning oil in the exhaust immediately. It has never really gotten
> any better.
>
> As I mentioned before this was a totally rebuilt engine, new pistons,
> rings, bearings, machining, etc. Could the lack of seals on the
> exhaust valves be the source of the smoke?
>
> I'd be interested in hearing others opinions on this. I've been
> meaning to pull the head to put new seals on the exhaust valves but
> I've been having too much fun driving the car to take the time.
>
> I used a new copper competition head gasket on both heads. The shop
> that did the machining came highly recommended by members of the
> local MG club, so I trust that they did a proper job.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Robert Weeks
> 1969 MG Midget
> http://www.woozy.com/midget
>
> >Bill,
> >That 1316 head is just a standard 1275 head with single valve springs.
> >I always put seals on all valves
> >when I do them. If you use dual springs be sure to use the attendant
> >hardware that goes with them and be sure that the seals fit within the
> >inner spring and do not rub.
> >Brad
> >
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Bill Mantz" <bmantz@infi.net>
> >To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 5:07 PM
> >Subject: Valve seals
> >
> >
> >1275 Engine-Head Casting #12G1316 (Doesn't seem to match anything in
> >Vizard's book) When I took it apart, it had seals on intake and
> >exhaust
> >valves. I have been told by several people that the seals are required
> >on intake only. I have noticed the guides for the intake are slightly
> >beveled, making them more receptive to the installation of seals. What
> >gives? Intake and exhaust or intake only?
> >
> >Bill Mantz
> >Roanoke, Va.
> >1971 Midget (soon to be daily driver)
> >1959 Bugeye ( still in pieces)
> >Other stuff (autos)
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