If your bearings are loose, you can use a Locktite product to "make up space".
It seems to work well for me. Also, the rear nuts are thin and most sockets have
a relief at the edge, so just grinding this relief off will help in slipped
wrenches. A 1/2 inch socket set and a 1/2-3/4 adapter work well for me.
Something like 140 ft/lbs torque is what the rear nuts take.
Roger Cotting
1960 Bugeyes(2)
1973 Midget
1980 TR8
Mitsu 3000GT
Greg Gowins wrote:
> Bryan,
>
> At least on the bearings I had, they had markings on which way to install.
> I don't remember exactly how it was done, but it was very clear as to the
> placement. Also, if they just fall out , like Andrew mentioned, I'd go
> searching for new hubs, or take the hubs to a machine shop and have them
> fixed. I had this problem where the bearings were fairly loose. The old
> bearings worked ok, but once the new ones were put in, I had a terrible
> shake in the rear end of the car. Got a set of used hubs, put the bearings
> in, and presto, problem solved.
>
> I forgot to mention in my earlier post, but a good hub puller is a
> necessity. Luckily I had a 3/4" wide, thick piece of metal I could use as
> the anchor point for the puller. Otherwise, that portion of the removal can
> be a pain.
>
> Greg Gowins
> '69 Sprite
> Dublin, CA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bryan Vandiver <Bryan.Vandiver@Eng.Sun.COM>
> To: <Bryan.Vandiver@Eng.Sun.COM>; <Andrew.Griffith@ReadRite.com>
> Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 2:43 PM
> Subject: RE: Rear hub seals
>
> > Does anyone know if there is a 'thrust' side to the rear wheel bearings,
> and if
> > so, which way should the side marked 'thrust' be installed in the hubs? I
> don't
> > remember seeing anything about that in my manuals last night.
> >
> > - Bryan
> >
> > >X-Authentication-Warning: teamfat2.dsl.aros.net: majordom set sender to
> > owner-spridgets@Autox.Team.Net using -f
> > >To: Bryan.Vandiver@eng.sun.com
> > >Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
> > >Subject: RE: Rear hub seals
> > >MIME-Version: 1.0
> > >
> > >Bryan,
> > >If your rear hubs are anything like mine... you wont need a press for the
> > >bearings, they almost fell out.
> > >Use lots of Hylomar on both sides of the paper gasket and all over the
> > >o-ring, this is where it works best. Don't buy any if you need some... I
> > >have lots.
> > >Good Luck,
> > >-Drew
> > >-----Original Message-----
> > >From: Bryan Vandiver [mailto:Bryan.Vandiver@Eng.Sun.COM]
> > >Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 10:38 AM
> > >To: spridgets@autox.team.net
> > >Subject: Rear hub seals
> > >
> > >
> > >I finally pulled one of my rear wheels last night to track down the oil
> > >leaks on
> > >both my rear wheels.
> > >The seals between the axle half-shafts/hub, were nice an dry, however, I
> can
> > >see
> > >definite oil seepage from the inside hub seal.
> > >To replace these, it looks like I'll have to pull the hubs, and press out
> > >the
> > >bearings and then the seals. Can I press in the new seal, and bearing
> with
> > >hand
> > >tools, or do I need a press??
> > >BTW - what size is the nut retaining the rear hub (1&7/8"?)?? when I
> > >originally
> > >installed them, the wheels studs were not installed, so I was able to use
> a
> > >crescent wrench, but now it looks like I'll need to get a socket, unless
> I
> > >feel
> > >like pounding on my nice replaced wheel studs.
> > >Also I notice the shop manuals dont give any specs for how tight the rear
> > >hub
> > >retaing nut should be, any pointere on that.
> > >
> > >Thanks - Bryan
> >
> >
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