alright cats and kittens!
the fan low down is this..... a fan placed in front of a core has a tendancy
to (when not running ) block some air flow through the rad core. a cooling
fan is more effective installed to pull air through the core than installed
in front pushing air. and yes, unless it is placed against the core will
push or pull lazy air from the outside of the edges long before it will flow
air theough the core. i have been doing some experimentation with this on
my race car. using a thermostatic switch is a real neat idea but sensing
radiator top tank temp is too late! you need to sense cylinder head temp.
and if at all possible have a manual activation switch. the manual switch
is for those times when you forsee getting stuck sitting somewhere like in a
traffic jamb or similar situation. throw switch ahead of switch sensing
heat bulidup, it will buy you more time when sitting. if you have a
cylinder head with the side front plugged hole below the thermostat housing,
install a fitting in there for a mini cooper temp sensor and use that port
for temp sensing. if not modify an aluminum thermostat housing by having a
fitting heliarced to the housing for fan temp switch. the closer to the
cylinder head temperature the better. the fan needs to be activated as
soon as possible upon reaching a predetermined "on" temperature. the longer
it takes to be activated the harder it will be to exchange the needed heat
to lower engine temperature. and this in turn is relative to how well the
cooling fan mounting bracket is sealed around the outer edges to the
radiator core to maximise the draw of the fan. complicated? no not really.
but a few simple oversights and the car will run eternally on the hot side
and you will be displeased with end result of your efforts and expenses.
btw! using the foam that comes in a roll with adhesive on 1 side is a start
to seal the fan directly to the core. but beware!!!! foam degenerates
rapidly with heat! look for sponge "rubber" type (usually black! not white
or grey in color). the rubber has a higher resistance to degeneration fron
radiator heat.
like um doing some more testing at lime rock at the track on july 5th and
6th. results? i shure hope so. but so far the above is from first hand
experience.
chuck.
ok-ok i'll shut up now!
----- Original Message -----
From Larry Macy <macy at bblmail.psycha.upenn.edu>
To: Bryan Vandiver <Bryan.Vandiver@Eng.Sun.COM>; <ulix@u.washington.edu>;
Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 7:04 PM
Subject: Re: Electric fan conversion
> I like that idea about soldering a lug in to put the switch into it. In
> my case the fan is in front of the Rad and you can not see it unless you
> are looking for it. It is hidden in the front body panel and rad shroud.
>
> Larry
>
> At this exact moment in time 6/26/00 13:52, Bryan.Vandiver@Eng.Sun.COM
> made the profound statement:
>
> >I just installed this same set-up, and even though it's supposed to turn
> >the fan
> >on at 185, it doesn't kick in until 195, and shuts down at 180. I know my
> >temp
> >gauge is correct, since I calibrated it with a reference thermomoter, and
> >it's
> >dead on from 120 to 212 degrees. I'm going to try soldering a brass lug
> >directly
> >to the side of the top tank on my radiator, and thread the thermo switch
> >into
> >that to try and increase the accuracy.
> >Also, the current 10" fan I have installed is rated at 680 CFM, and just
> >desn't
> >seem to have much affect, so I'm going to upgrade to a bigger fan with
> >1000+CFM.
> >BTW - I installed the fan inside my bugeye bonnet shroud, so with the
bonnet
> >closed, the fan is located about 1.5" infront of the radiator core. I
like
> >this
> >set-up, since with the bonnet open, it doesn't affect the cosmetics of
the
> >engine, also, I was able to make up a bracket for mounting the fan that
> >required
> >no drilling/modification of the body, and it can easily be removed.
> >
> > - Bryan
> >
> >>Subject: Re: Electric fan conversion
> >>To: "ulix" <ulix@u.washington.edu>, "spridgets"
<spridgets@autox.team.net>
> >>Mime-Version: 1.0
> >>
> >>Ulix,
> >>Sorry I can't remember what year you have, but I have an electric fan in
> >>my 78 Midget. I have a thermocouple that goes through the rad. Be
> >>careful!!! When putting this in I poked a hole in the rad and had to
have
> >>it repaired. This sensor is set to turn the fan on at 185 and off at 165
> >>(rad temp). It actually lets the engine get to about 190 at low speeds
> >>and up to about 195 at stops etc and about 195+ at high speeds on hot
> >>days (but not over 200). I am interested in an adjustable because I
think
> >>this is just a bit warm for the engine. I have a 185 thermostat in the
> >>coolant system.
> >>
> >>Good Luck and let me know how that adjustable works out.
> >>
> >>BTW I went to the electric for a differnet reason. I was getting ready
> >>for a long cruise and needed a new water pump. I diod not have time to
> >>wait for mail order so I got one from PepBoys. They actually had one on
> >>the shelf!! However it came without a clutch and the holes in the
> >>mounting flange did not match the clutch. I had no way to mount a fan. I
> >>looked for a solid fan to bolt to the pump but could not find one small
> >>enough. So I tried the electric fan. I found 2 immediate benefits.
> >>Lowered noise!!! and quicker revving and a bit more power. The noise I
> >>had counted on but I was a bit suprised by the revving and power.
> >>Although in retrospect, I shouldn't have been suprised.
> >>
> >>Larry
> >>
> >>At this exact moment in time 6/26/00 1:22, ulix@u.washington.edu made
the
> >>profound statement:
> >>
> >>>I want to install an electric fan, mainly to get rid of the fan howl at
> >>>higher rpm.
> >>>The plan is an 11" pusher fan from Racer Parts Wholesale ($45) mounted
> >>>in front of the (downflow) radiator.
> >>>If I mount it through the radiator, I would have to break the plastic
> >>>zip-tie type mounts every time I want to remove the radiator. The
> >>>alternative is to mount it on brackets to the body.
> >>>
> >>>I saw that VB sells an adjustable thermostat for only $15. Has anyone
> >>>bought this one? I am wondering how it mounts to the cooling system
and
> >>>how well it works. Another option is to find a fan switch from a
> >>>different car that screws into the temp gauge fitting on the radiator.
> >>>
> >>>Any comments on my plans?
> >>>
> >>>Ulix
> >>
> >>
> >>Larry B. Macy, Ph.D.
> >>macy@bblmail.psycha.upenn.edu
> >>System Administrator/Manager
> >>Neuropsychiatry Section
> >>Department of Psychiatry
> >>University of Pennsylvania
> >>3400 Spruce St. - 1015 Gates
> >>Philadelphia, PA 19104
> >>
> >> Ask a question and you're a fool for three minutes; do not ask a
> >>question and you're a fool for the rest of your life.
> >>
> >>
>
>
> Larry B. Macy, Ph.D.
> macy@bblmail.psycha.upenn.edu
> System Administrator/Manager
> Neuropsychiatry Section
> Department of Psychiatry
> University of Pennsylvania
> 3400 Spruce St. - 1015 Gates
> Philadelphia, PA 19104
>
> Ask a question and you're a fool for three minutes; do not ask a
> question and you're a fool for the rest of your life.
>
>
>
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